Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

post-120922-13817012725901_thumb.jpgpost-120922-13817012927601_thumb.jpgpost-120922-13817013081513_thumb.jpg

There's are the mags I got with the skyline, they need a good scrub but will polish up nicely, just got my shed up do there going in today and I'm going to get the car up on ramps an check out the undercarriage .

But I have no idea how I'd go about using these mags as I'm definatly not a bolt on flairs kind of guy.

Cheers

Is anyone familiar with the rim brand that came with the car , as I've no idea how I'd get them on the car without flairs, an there Japanese so I'm guessing thou there skyline stud pattern they fit another of the nissan range without mods at a guess????

Cheers

Stockies you can get for dirt cheap pretty much anywhere for around $200. Cheaper even. Im sure someone in ACT will have a set laying around.

Places like ESP, Autotech and Ultimate tunes will do Dyno Diagnostic runs. I have not had one done in ages but i think mine was around $160 mark a few years ago. I highly recommend taking it to one of those shops and throw it on the Dyno with a computer and they can tell you exactly whats wrong with it.

The car runs fine , I'm not sure what the bov is suppose to sound like when you back off, that's why I wanted someone with skyline experience to take it for a quick drive and see if it's making the noises it should, it runs great, auto choke maybe runs to long, and the passenger electric window needs fixing or replacing as it rises at an angle, it's 96 Db which I have to get to 90db for the rego transfer to act but it still has til February 2014 rego Vic.

Instead of changing exhaust for the tick ages ago I used fibreglass stuffing to quiet a m/bike exhaust an worked great not sure if it can be done here.

The steering rack and engine block need degreasing as the inspector said rack leak but I've had it checked no leak just need cleaning.

I'm nearly there an appreciate the advice.

Just got burned 4500$ on gumtree on a qld deal so money's tight til I sort that, but it's in hand.

If your a scammer , future advice don't have a huge digital footprint. Lol

Thx guys an gals I'm loving my car more every time I drive it, an to think I let it sit 6 months before even looking at it close.

Cheers

Daryl

Ps the link on what to look for helped save my arse in dubbo about 7k , the kicker was he didn't even want to test drive my ls1 ute just sign the papers an go.

I work at the airport so if you like one day this/next week i could come over and take a peak if you.

From those pics i can't tell if the BOV is standard or not as i have not owned a gts-t. Some of the other guys should be able to shed some light?

What are you overly concerned about with the car?

I just really like it, an from experience, when I get in this state of mind ill run amok fixing it up, I just want to know if it worth sticking with this one or looking for a better one to start on.

Thanks Ill take up that offer anytime, I've posted my number before, but it's 0431691940, I'm not a keyboard warrior , so cowards making prank calls don't worry me.

I'd really appreciate your input just name a time,thx

Daryl

Honestly if it runs it is a good start. I recommend;

-Do a compression test and a check with a computer (Dyno)

-If all healthy start modding , if not fix issues.

-???

-Profit..?????

I'm not looking to sell , I brought it about 6 months ago for 5000$ 5500$ can't remember , I'd just be happy to have someone who has a clue have a quick drive an see if it's doing the right things, noises etc, before I start forking over money, I've never owned a turbo before or a nissan etc , been spending my time on a lsx commy , which is at this point abit scary to drive, careful what u wish for lol.

The skyline , I feel comfortable driving, it's smaller handles better an capable of making as much power as I want from what I've read.

I'd like to walk into a workshop an not be picked up as green, been there spent that an a lot more because of that.

Cheers

Daryl

Just an example of my green'ness would be , I don't even know what the coil over suspension adjustment bit is for. I'm guessing it's for ride soft or stiffness, reading all I can, just ordered a workshop manual a proper one, but that won't cover aftermarket parts an explanations of mods, one of the selling points of the dubbo nightmare was new splitfire coils and when I posted the pic it was pointed out my car has them too, an another thing pointed out from the pictures , a Yellow boost-t ?? No clue.

My apologies I'm reading up , but all advice an feedback is appreciated an Anfanee, I'll take you up on your offer if it's still open.

Cheers

Daryl

Morning all, after taking a second look over the engine yesterday with somebody with a keener eye then me, I've got a feel for what's there etc, the only thing I couldn't work out, was the yellow thing with four lobes at the right back of the engine bay in pic five, if anyone can pick it let my know,

Enjoy your wheat bix guys and thanks for the help, payday today so I'll be ringing about to see if I can get it on a Dyno.

Cheers

Congrats on joining the turbo world! you'll love it =)

No idea about that yellow thing. But looking where a boost Tee would normally be installed it appears it has been removed and just replaced with a corner joiner.? (just down + left of the afm.) Does that hose go from the intercooler piping to the wastegate actuator? what boost is it running?

also looks like there's a bit of unusual blue piping around, but i have seen many different ways of things being hooked up. I definitely think this has had a lot of playing around done to it.

As for 'is it a good place to start?' That kinda depends how far you want to go. By the sounds of it you will do quite a bit so anything really will be ok as you will gradually replace everything anyway. Just be prepared to spend hours and hours using the advanced search of this forum and reading hundreds of pages of threads. Everything you need to know is here somewhere =)

Just a word of warning:

No ute makes life harder, mines gone, no more piles of sand or gravel, you cant transport this stuff in a wagon!

Stuffing a gearbox in a boot sux, wheels and tyres in the back seat, boot and front seat, or they wont fit......... get the picture?

I have been considering buying something with a bit more space lately, you have just convinced me to consider a ute, have never really had any interest in them until now........

On my way back from the dubbo fiasco, I was thinking, after putting 3000$ I to it the week before, I will keep the ute, an after Anthony , checking out my r33 yesterday, I might stick with that to, thx for your time btw.

The ute tray is a definite advantage for moving anything and a solid lockable tray lid , secures every thing. So I'm going to stop trying to trade up an be greatful with what I have now, I usually end up with someone else's problems, but looks like I lucked out on the ute an the skyline.

Cheers

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Does that German restaurant still exist in the old place out the NW end of Goulburn? When I say "out the NW end of"...I am really being vague. It was 1997 when I was last there, and the only point of reference I can recall is that it was on the opposite side of the main drag from the big merino. And when I say "opposite side of the main drag", I don't mean "on the main drag". It was either a couple of streets back from there, or might have even been out in the sticks a bit further. Was an old farm building or mill or somesuch. And when I say "the big merino" I might actually be thinking of a completely different part of town, because I just looked on maps and the big bugger is not where I remembered him to be! The food was good, consisting largely of various German mystery-meat sausage/loaf things and kartofflen.
    • So while the second sentence is completely correct and the whole point of the conversation, the first sentence bears consideration. If this bloke is just hoping to throw big turbos on and drive it around, because there are no helpful facilities at all in his tropical paradise** then he likely has zero chance of even knowing what the TP is on the last column in the stock maps, let alone know whether the ECU is operating anywhere near it or past it. So the point is very very moot. And, per what I said before, at stock boost on those turbos, you may well be off the end of the map. **I'm just back from Vanuatu, so I know exactly what small Pacific nations can be like wrt paradise without requisite facilities. But it's not even that simple. I put a high flow on my car and had to drive it around with a proper tune because of the lack of opportunity*** to put the bigger AFM and injectors into it to allow it to be tuned. I had to turn the boost down to less than I had before, and back off the boost controller's ramp, because it was exploring parts of the map that it didn't drive in before, and really couldn't access for tuning on the dyno either, and so was pinging. It was still well within the last column, because when I first**** set up the Nistune on the Neo I rescaled all axes of the maps to give some more space to explore. ***Family dyno was broken ****This was 13 years ago, and the TIM thing wasn't a thing then and so TP would definitely grow when pushing past the stock tune's limits.
    • Yep, this bit another local owner. I caught it before putting the transmission back into the car, what I noticed was the pressure plate fingers weren't flat and even. It's more obvious with the pull style clutch because the throwout bearing ring was visibly not flat once everything is put together. Nismo should really update their instructions to call out this specific detail. I'm not even sure the clutch as-shipped orients everything properly.
    • It ended up being that orientation of the float hub in relation to the clutch disk, when I installed it, I heard a loud click and being stupid, I decided to not take it a part and check it. The hub didn't properly align with the clutch disk and was causing the issue. Definitely an odd one! Dahtone Racing was able to fix me right up, stand up blokes!      
    • Right, but I'm saying on the stock ECU measured airmass from the MAF is no higher than stock. So it's accounting for the higher flow rate iso-manifold pressure. You just have to keep turning down the boost until you're within the stock tune's load scale. If you run off the end there's no telling what will happen. This does mean there's zero benefit to the turbos you're running vs stock, if anything it's just a straight downgrade because the transient response is worse, you don't even get the ECU's boost solenoid helping to pull the wastegate closed during initial spool, and peak power is only whatever the factory map can give you before you hit the R&R corner. On a -9 I would bet that you would have to change out the wastegate spring once you have a real ECU and you're tuning it for real. I'm not saying this is a remotely ideal state of affairs, it's just a way to keep it driveable until you can get a proper tune done.
×
×
  • Create New...