Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey every one

I'm selling my pride and joy 2000 R34 skyline this car has done well for my Ps I love this car and I’m only selling because i have recently got a turbo one

if I have left anything out or you would like to know more contact me on here

or email [email protected] or txt me on 0403763014

Great car which is both reliable and a head turner, as well as being P plate legal. Never had any problems with this car, very reliable. Car is still stock so you are free to do what you want to a clean canvas. good fuel consumption for 6 get about 500k to a tank(around suburbs)has good take off never been to tracks, "skids" or race. I did have audio system but took it out (professionally installed and uninstalled) and put back in stock that came out I do have some audio for sale if you want to by it.

-mongooses immobiliser with black wiring with 2 remotes

-This is a 2000 Nissan Skyline R34 25GT 2 door coupe

-2.5L straight six RB25DE NEO 6
-2.5 inch stranded exhausts with 4’ tip on “drift cut” and high flow Cat that sound great without being too loud

-5 speed manual

-13X,XXXkm

-2 keys

-1st owner in Australia have paper work from Japan

-Imported in 2011

-Rego till 18/12/2013
-Non-turbo
-well looked after and serviced when needed by brother (ex mechanic for Nissan and Audi)
-Great condition
-the engine and gearbox is from factory and has had no mods.
-All new tyres


Stock stranded

P/S, A/C, P/W, ABS, Dual Air Bag, Aluminium Wheel, 5 Seater, HICAS , Twin Cam, 24 valve

Factory extra Series 2 audio with stock pop up TV with upgraded speakers and door tweeters with DVD/CD player pop up TV can easy be replaced with GTT triple gauges (volts, oil, water or vac)

GT wing

After market

Rare GT front bar with hole for fog lights with a blue grid be hide

After market HIDs 8000k low beam

White 65W high beam

LEDs in parker light, map light and license plate light

Blue LEDs in cluster from neo gauge LED (DAN666)

Blue LEDs on driver side foot well

GTT coil packs

Iridium spark plugs

i'm asking $14,000 and I am open to offers

but no low balling or timer wasters

post-84221-0-80227700-1381060522_thumb.jpg

post-84221-0-60522800-1381060529_thumb.jpg

post-84221-0-23381000-1381060534_thumb.jpg

post-84221-0-24442300-1381060540_thumb.jpg

post-84221-0-23871400-1381060546_thumb.jpg

post-84221-0-30584400-1381060551_thumb.jpg

post-84221-0-46005900-1381060557_thumb.jpg

post-84221-0-62403500-1381060563_thumb.jpg

post-84221-0-35335000-1381060568_thumb.jpg

post-84221-0-54096000-1381060573_thumb.jpg

post-84221-0-12248600-1381061038_thumb.jpg

post-84221-0-00556400-1381061045_thumb.jpg

post-84221-0-38246600-1381061049_thumb.jpg

post-84221-0-68227200-1381061053_thumb.jpg

Does come with a ROADWORTHY CERTIFICATE.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/432932-qld-fs2000-r34-coupe-25gt-na/
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...
  • 1 month later...
  • 1 month later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The alloy coolant reservoir has a sight glass, so as long as I can see coolant in the sight glass it's GTG, as for PS, it isn't anything catastrophic if it gets low, and as it hasn't lost a drop since I have owned the car I cannot see it being an issue, even after putting the "big block" 2.5 in....LOL The only time it gets slightly messy is at oil changes, as the oil filter sits above the frame, and I need to use a plastic bottle with its bottom cut off to catch the flow when loosening the filter
    • Good on you for taking on the job, but it is a big one. Even if you have bolt on manifold and turbo, you will need: Post throttle pressure source to boost controller to wastegate (and FPR, and ECU/MAP sensor) Pre throttle pressure source to top of BOV(s) Oil feed - you can take that from the standard port in the middle of the block Oil return to block under the turbo - this is much trickier than it seems to route a decent/wide pipe past the manifold. You really can't use rubber hose because it is way too hot there, and also the oil out of the turbo core is a bit frothy so it needs to have a decent diameter Water feed - you can take that from the standard port in the rear of the block. Water return - mine runs to a T into the heater box return, just make sure you don't create a high point making bleeding hard. All of those lines should use 200 series style teflon braided hose with heat shielding because everything needs to be routed past the manifold. Also a turbo beanie is a really good idea to minimise the chance of the car catching fire (under bonnet lining in particular) You also need to decide a cam cover breathing solution as well, will you vent externally via a catch can (probably illegal) or return to the intake (plumbing required and can oil up everything over time) Keep in mind the intake and exhaust piping in the engine bay will be custom so you either need to be able to fab ally and steel or have someone you can get a car that isn't running to. Get the wideband fitting welded into the dump pipe at the same time. Also, just my opinion, a screamer pipe attracts attention and doesn't add power, I'd plumb it back if you want to be allowed to keep the car on the road. BTW do you know anything about how healthy the motor is, and what power you are targeting? Doubling or tripling the factory power on an unknown motor is a little risky. Also fuel system will need some attention (pumps, high current hanger, direct power and earth feed, injectors etc)
    • Wrinkle black will be a thing for both
    • As I wait for parts to be delivered, I have managed to procure via a contact a R32 Nistune ECU......for now I just want to monitor what the car is doing but eventually.......who knows where we go 😂
    • To back this up, I'm always looking on the outside, seeing the level, and then opening it up anyway, as I'm worried the level I've looked at, is more so a scunge line. Then you end up dipping your damn finger in it too depending on the type of tank you're looking at just to make sure I'm not going insane.   PS, Mark, polish up the none moroso one a bit and then give it a clear coat. The Moroso one looks to be way shiner (not mirror polished, just shinier) and it'll still look weird with the two different alloys beside each other. Either that, or Id probably paint them a flat black...
×
×
  • Create New...