Jump to content
SAU Community

R33 Air Con Idle Fluctuation And Stalling

macaroni646

By macaroni646,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

shubby0901 Community Regular

shubby0901

Posted
Posted

Don't be scared to use it

Ive mentioned before that I had already done the cleaning but am still having the issue therefore I asked in a thread with someone else with the same issue. Infact, I used that very article as a guide.

The second question was which plug was for the TPS, since that article has only 1 plug where as my R33 has 2.

Thanks for the contribution though. :rolleyes:

shubby0901 Community Regular

shubby0901

Posted
Posted

For mine, they both have cables. I've read that the grey is for auto's but mine's a manual. Perhaps the grey cable isn't connected further down the loom but at the plug, its definitely connected.

shubby0901 Community Regular

shubby0901

Posted
Posted (edited)

Maybe. I've only had the car for a few months. Its got a proper manual gearbox and the gauge cluster is for a manual too. Anyway, so a manual shouldn't have that plug and so its the other brown one. Is there anything else that can cause the rough idle? The revs dont change that much, only like 50-100prm, its more the car shakes. Its not O2 sensor as I disconnected that and still had problems. Revs are adjusted properly because i just disconnected both the grey and brown cable and couldn't get the revs to drop any further than 1000, the screw in AAC is all the way in. I just want to make sure that its nothing major.

Edited by shubby0901
shubby0901 Community Regular

shubby0901

Posted
Posted

My boost gauge piping had split (for the second time) so I fixed that although I doubt that'll cause the air-con issue.

My car has not buttons or anything inside. The only sign of an auto car are the two plugs on throttle body. Maybe they installed a auto throttle body? Not sure but yeah inside the car, there are no signs unless I'm missing something very subtle.

shubby0901 Community Regular

shubby0901

Posted
Posted

Havnt had a proper chance to test but initial impressions are that the shaking is alot less violent....so im assuming this vaccum leak could be a factor. Unplugging any sensors had no effect...testing shall continue

  • 3 weeks later...
shubby0901 Community Regular

shubby0901

Posted
Posted (edited)

btw, ive seen quite a few series 2 manual skylines with the 2 plugs on the throttle body...maybe all series 2's have it?

edit: there are series 1 auto skylines with 1 plug...i think it may be a series vs 2 thing rather than auto vs manual?

Edited by shubby0901

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...