Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, finally got everything I need to start putting this thing together. One problem though, I started taking apart the rb30 and when I took the head of, there was signs of a blown HG and rust in the bores. That scraps my original plan to use stock internals and it looks like someone cracked a bunch of raw eggs in the rad and this shit is all through out the block.

My plan now is to get the block acid dipped, decked and honed and then put it back together again. I cant afford forgies so I was wondering what would be the best upgrade to do internally? like should I go with upgraded pistons? or stronger rods instead?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/433692-weakest-link-in-engine/
Share on other sites

if you have a running engine in the car currently, save for the forged pistons.

may as well do it while its all apart.

if you need it, find another 30 bottom end in better condition and use that for now.

will probably end up cheaper then the machine work.

and slowly build the 2nd motor on the side.

Have a look at simons14's car. I think he is at over 400rwkw on e85 on untouched bottom end, and definitely gives it a hard time. Kinda makes it hard to justify a rebuild! he has a build thread.

Edited by superben

OK so my mind keeps changing with this thing lol. I called an engine reco place and they told me to clean it its going to cost me $60 and to get it decked $88. They will also check if it needs a rehone.

I think I might just freshen up the bottom end with new rings and bearings and save some dosh for a good clutch.

If your building for a track car, you need at minimum to blueprint the motor is your half serious about doing something to it and helping it survive.

At minimum it will need to be decked, honed maybe bored, and possibly have the crank bore alignbored, before we go into pistons and bearings, let alone rods.

With a standard rebuild at minimum you need new rings, bearings, and if the bores are good just a hone.

There is not much difference in work if the rust is not deep as a hone will clean it out, either way you need to acid dip your block to clean it no matter how clean or dirty it is, one speck of grit and its all over.

All in all if it adds up to too much and you dont want to spend, buy a VL Runner and leave it alone, hopefully it will last long enough till you save up a bit.

If you do want to change something on a stock bottom end in a track car, concentrate on oil pump, a bigger sump and breathers and if funds allow look at rod bolts and pistons over rods if short on cash in the order listed.

Yeah I already have an N1 oil and water pump but when I saw the shit that was in the block, it made me think that even if I did buy a running rb30 I dont know what the previous owner has dumped in it. Im not going to bolt brand new stuff on an engine based on what the guy I buy it off tells me. The guy I bought this engine from told me it had under 200,000k on it and he only took it out of his VL because he bought an Rb25 for it. I don't think so.

I always thought getting it honed and bored were the same thing? If it needs it ill get it done and ill ask the the shop what else I need to do.

Still tearing this thing down and so far im feeling pretty good about putting it back together. I have the work shop manual and its helped me out a ton.

And yeah, mainly track car. I would love to see 500hp from this thing but ill be happy with what ever the tuner does as he would know best.

Edited by Gameboy

Honing takes a little metal off, it does make the cylinder slightly larger. what it basically does is to produce a new finish on the bore for the rings to bed into, new rings need a particular finish to bed in properly.

Bore is to make the cylinder larger, this guaranty's you will need new pistons, its used when the old bore finish is too worn or out of round so they need to go wider, this is done by boring and then a hone finish is applied afterwards for a ring bed in and seal.

You can just hone a old bore and use the old pistons if the cylinders are still in reasonable condition, a little bit of rust can be taken out however the person doing the job needs to check your piston skirt width and then finished bore diameter and then calculate if your still OK with clearances, too much bore clearance leads to piston slap and compression loss.

Any machinist workshop can just look at the block, see the condition of the bores, measure them up and then measure your pistons and give you a idea if you need just a hone or a bore and new pistons.

Edited by GTRPSI

If it were I. I would do as The Mafia said. In the long run will last longer and will give you a better compression ratio. If planning on running e85 you want atleast 9.1 comp IMO. Save a little longer.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks Dose.....    I appreciate it!!
    • I'll probably be putting the shit box back on the dyno again soon, I want to dial in the closed loop boost control properly. I'll have a camera facing the car/motor for fun too. Just note, there are essentially 3x 10AN inlets going into the catch can and 1x going back to the intake pipe. Most of the time the catch can "return" to the sump actually is the crank case breather, pushing air out.
    • I have the R3C with a Nismo slave and by no means does it behave like a stocker, it ain’t THAT bad. On take off just give a bit more throttle than you would say a coppermix and it’s fine. It will not slip though.   
    • Okay. Final round of testing done. Got a friend to hook up a fancy scanner to the car and we also ran some compression and leakdown tests, she is healthy.  The MAF was definitely the culprit. So for future reference anyone with similar issues that find this thread. I suggest the following steps, in order of affordability:   Check your spark plugs for any fouling, replace plugs if they are bad or re adjust the gaps making it narrower (0.8mm would be good). Check every coil's resistance with a multimeter. It can be done by probing the IB and G pins on the coil pack. Resistance should be around 1.4 (+/- 0.1) Ohms Check the MAF. If you have Nissan connect or a good scanner with the 14 adapter it should allow you to see the voltage on the MAF reading should be around 1.1 - 1.2V when car is idling. But if you don't, buy a new MAF from Amazon and test, then return it. (For instance, I got a Chinese one for $40 that was reporting 1.3v on idle). If you still have scanner, you can run tests on the injectors to see if they are working, just remember to unplug the fuel pump fuse/relay and have no pressure on the line. Then listen for the noises that the injectors make. Clean/replace injectors as needed. Once you find the issue and fix, order thousands of dollars worth of OEM parts to refresh unrelated things (Optional)   PS: Thanks to the absolute legends of this forum for the responses and help to someone that went a bit over their head. (me)
    • Ha ha ha, so they stopped the bearings spinning on the one you want, but then decided the crank hub should slip instead 😛   Stick to RB, at least you can work on it yourself. And now it doesn't smell of vapour   Also I still believe there's a chance your new flap doesn't "pop", as even though the engine might breath hard, it has a direct path with no restriction to the inlet, which when on boost should pull a bit of suction for you. If you do get pressure in the catch can id be very intrigued. Time to put a boost gauge on it, and a session at the track, then solid cover your vent and do another session
×
×
  • Create New...