Jump to content
SAU Community

R32 Gtr Tail Shaft Options - Help Needed

Hornet2572
 Share

Recommended Posts

Hornet2572 Collaborator

Hornet2572

Posted
Posted

G'day,

Had JEM go over my R32 GTR a few weeks ago just to assess what I can do to it, what it needs what I should change etc. One of the few things on the list was to replace the tail shaft due to it being "pretty well flogged" . I plan to use the car for some track work, so I am wondering what my best option is? Buying a second hand one seems risky, but I'm not sure where to find a new / replacement. Any ideas? Tips?

Thanks,

Matt.

jiffo Mentor

jiffo

Posted
Posted

I'd ask for clarification on the "Pretty well flogged" comment first.

GTR rear propshaft is very tough and usually its only fault is the universal joint at the gearbox end.

Front shaft vibrations are nearly always universals or if she's had a hard life, wear to the spline in the transfer case.

Easy to pick the propshaft vibrations especially at lift off if a universal joint has had it. (GTR will often get the gear stick wobbling)

This would need new yokes to suit a replaceable joint if you intended going down that route. (Standard joint has the peened in universal)

The CV joints give excellent service as does the centre bearing.

It's an over-engineered bit of gear but if you have plans for a massive hp increase, you're out of my territory.

Hornet2572 Collaborator

Hornet2572

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks mate, on the spec sheet they gave me just indicates "tail shaft needs replacing" so I assume they've had a look and determined that the whole thing needs to be swapped. They were pretty good, helping me out with advice, rather than just trying to make a sale, so I tend to just go with what they say. I'll make some more enquiries though about the uni joints and yokes etc. Thanks,

Hornet2572 Collaborator

Hornet2572

Posted
  • Author
Posted

uas i think it is do a one piece one slightly lighter so makes it feel a bit revvier but any tailshaft joint hardy spicer etc should be able to rebuild the stock one i would think

Thanks, I'll have a look into them too!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • AnimalGarage
      spot the stagea

      By AnimalGarage · Posted

      I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • AnimalGarage
      Can you mount the ATTESA pump in other locations?

      By AnimalGarage · Posted

      According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • joshuaho96
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • GTSBoy
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
    • The Bogan
      SAU NSW - R U OK? Southern Highlands Cruise

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Lock me in mate, although I'm not sure if I'll be heading up from Goulburn or down from Sydney, either way, return will be back to Goulburn 
×
×
  • Create New...