Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, I recently got some new coilovers for my cefiro and I'm having some trouble adjusting the ride height on the rears. When they are out of the car they are really easy to spin the threaded part of the shock up or down in the body to adjust height but when they are bolted into the strut tower and onto the hub carrier the are super hard to spin with the adjusting spanners, the only way to spin them easily is with a long bar on the end of the spanners and it makes an awful squealing noise. I've CRC'd the thread but still the same. Seems like there's side ways pressure on the coilovers and it's not wanting to spin freely. Only suspension mods in the rear are adjustable camber and toe arms, gtr sway bar and s14 hubs. Sorry for the novel length post but any help would be great!

  • 3 weeks later...

There would be some upward pressure applied to the damper by the sway-bar, as well as the lower mounting bush applying lateral load, but that shouldn't be enough to make it that difficult to turn the adjuster. Have you inspected the threads for damage since they were mounted?

... When they are out of the car they are really easy to spin the threaded part of the shock up or down in the body to adjust height but when they are bolted into the strut tower and onto the hub carrier the are super hard to spin with the adjusting spanners ...

I've had similar experience but in the front, BC Racing coilovers being hard to adjust on an R34. Rears spin easier.

The only way I've found to make it a bit easier is to move the LCA up or down slightly, I've used a separate jack under the wheel hub when the wheel is off. It seems that there is some vertical tension in the whole suspension assembly that you have to get out in order to make adjusting the height easier.

I'm also keen to know if there's an easier way?

They are brand new and the threads are mint. There seem like a lot of side ways pressure on the coilover which is stopping the thread from spinning easily. I also tried a separate jack on the hub to take a bit of tension up but no luck. Could it be anything to do with the s14 hub carriers being different to s13/a31? Thanks for the replies

same in the stagea, rears are easy but the loan on the fronts make it a bitch. mine were still movable just with a squeal. or yeah undoo the base and take the load off to adjust.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
×
×
  • Create New...