Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=43555

I have said it many times before...do not even contemplate taking your GTR onto the track if it doesn't have a proper baffle in it. People in this thread have punched a hole in their blocks or spun bearings.

It is not a very expensive thing to do but will save your engine. If you want to do a track day in your GTR, please do up your sump first. Oil cooler is necessary, but will not stop your oil from surging.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/43640-gtr-owners-read-this/
Share on other sites

Yes, The R won't be seeing any real action till it has new sump with baffles, large capacity oil pump, oil cooler, bigger radiator, oil restrictors, enlarged oil return galleries and catch-can. So by about the year 2010 I think I should be ready.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=43555

It is not a very expensive thing to do but will save your engine.

Apparently the engine has to come out to take the sump off. Does anyone know what it is worth to fit baffles??

Yes, The R won't be seeing any real action till it has new sump with baffles, large capacity oil pump, oil cooler, bigger radiator, oil restrictors, enlarged oil return galleries and catch-can.   So by about the year 2010 I think I should be ready.

you forgotten exhaust, dump pipe. new turbos, big FMIC, 6 pots brakes, etc ,etc :D

To baffle your sump i think it costs around 200-300 done by the mechanic i use. You might find someone to do it for cheaper.

My Trust sump set up was cheap, but that's because I'm a dodgy Asian. I did not do the sump myself as I do not have an engine hoist nor do I have an angle grinder and a welder. Alternatively, you can buy a ready made JUN sump (not the parts to baffle the sump) for about 3 times what I paid for the Trust item.

I have said it many times, engine revs or how many laps are not important. How hard you turn is the important factor. QR has 3 right hand turns alone after the main straight, consider how much the oil would have moved to the left. Then think of the starved engine being revved to pull the car through turn 3 and bang you have a hole in your block.

So far, my mechanic has handed out accurate and invaluable advice to me, although it doesn't come cheap, although his advice regarding the sump was:

"Some people have gotten away without a sump for a couple of track days, but it's a $10k risk you are taking. If you're unlucky, your engine will blow by turn 2."

I don't know where people got the impression that GTRs are track ready from factory. They're far from it. They're a road going homologation of a race car, except the N1s or the special edition GTRs.

You have no idea how many times I thought I have prepared my car for the track only to be told this this this needs to be changed first. Not a cheap hobby nor car to choose for the track.

On a side note, Sydneykid has explained why the GTRs experience higher oil temps, i.e. 2 turbos and mainly because the front diff runs through the sump.

To baffle your sump i think it costs around 200-300 done by the mechanic i use.

Hey rb26dett, who is your mechanic? $200-300 sounds bloody cheap. I NEED to get mine done ASAP and am currently trying to get some pricing.

Thanks

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep, the closest base tune available was for the GTT, I went with that and made all the logical changes I could find to convert it to Naturally Aspirated. It will rev fine in Neutral to redline but it will be cutting nearly 50% fuel the whole way.  If I let it tune the fuel map to start with that much less fuel it wont run right and has a hard time applying corrections.  These 50% cuts are with a fuel map already about half of what the GTT tune had.  I was having a whole lot of bogging when applying any throttle but seem to have fixed that for no load situations with very aggressive transient throttle settings. I made the corrections to my injectors with data I found for them online, FBCJC100 flowing 306cc.  I'll have to look to see if I can find the Cam section. I have the Bosch 4.9 from Haltech. My manifold pressure when watching it live is always in -5.9 psi/inHg
    • Hi My Tokico BM50 Brake master cylinder has a leak from the hole between the two outlets (M10x1) for brake pipes, I have attached a photo. Can anyone tell me what that hole is and what has failed to allow brake fluid to escape from it, I have looked on line and asked questions on UK forums but can not find the answer, if anyone can enlighten me I would be most grateful.
    • It will be a software setting. I don't believe many on here ever used AEM. And they're now a discontinued product,that's really hard to find any easy answers on. If it were Link or Haltech, someone would be able to just send you a ECU file though.
    • Yes sir am asking is there possible way from aem tuner from wiring pins 
    • Have you checked cam to crank timing and confirmed balancer marks are correct?
×
×
  • Create New...