Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

This is a repost of what I put in the audio and security section. Not sure if that was the best forum for it:

I have a stepper boost gauge which is powered by an accessory circuit. When starting the engine, the gauge switches off and on again. The problem is I think the gauge has a self zeroing startup procedure, ie it centres the dial to 0 boost/vac. When it turns on the second time I believe its zeroing to about 0.1 bar boost (that is what it ends up on when turning the engine off, back to accessory position without disrupting power to the gauge)

Could a large capacitor be used to keep the gauge running in the short time while cranking the engine?

I dont think you needed to start a new thread. You got some answers in the other thread.

I honestly think its either a problem with the way the gauge is wired in or a problem with the gauge/sensor itself. If it is a boost gauge made for use in a car then there is no reason why you should need to setup something to keep 12v at the gauge while cranking. All cars suffer a drop in voltage when cranking so I would find it highly unusual for the manufacturers of the gauge you have to have overlooked this

I have 3 electronic gauges in my car, all 3 stay on while cranking and I dont have any issues. So I think you should follow some of the advice given in the other thread and have a look at your setup

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Not really, but the heater box is pretty simple mechanically....if the door is one way the air bypasses the heater core and if it is the other way it goes through it for warm air.  If you are sure the actuator you moved manually is for the heater mix (there would also be one for output air direction) then I'd take the heater box out and see what is happening (you'll have to regass and re-coolant the systems afterwards) BTW pp724 onwards from the GTR workshop manual cover the system in good detail, it is probably worth checking. I think the IAT sensor might be a problem electrically for getting cold (if you got 24 error code not -24 it thinks the incoming air is -50c) and it covers how to test the sensor (although most likely it is either not plugged in or a wire is damaged)
    • Use the GKTech subframe bush and bring your subframe 10mm closer to the chassis. You'll need to fix an exhaust hanger to suit. One of the best mods I've done.
    • You'd really have to pull it apart further to know, it least you can be confident that the one heading to the back is not connected any more. There was once a ground on the shifter seal mount too, your head unit issue could be that simple
    • Perfect, I'll get to it this winter then at the same time as I weld on my anti squat kit. 
    • Alright so my 32 only has one temperature no matter what degree you set it to. I’ve tried disconnecting the servo motor arm and moving it either direction and got no change. I’ve fixed the leak in my AC and re charged it and with it on and clutch engaged it still blows hot even though the low pressure pipe going to the firewall is ice cold. Both heater core hoses are hot while running as well. Diagnostic code showed 24 for intake air temperature sensor. Anybody got any ideas?
×
×
  • Create New...