Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

This. ^^

As there are many other people who are going to read this, just crimp some spade terminals onto the wires and run it to a switch, that way you can easily reset the code every month or two.

Leon seems to think everyone is an electronics guru, but there is absolutely no need to automate such a simple signal. All the ecu needs is a 5 second burst of power which is easily automated but I have seen so many wiring faults caused by DIY brake cut fiddling after owners reading threads like this... Now I just recommend the simple wire cut. (unless you feel very confident).

spank you verry much ;)

All I did was cut and extended the wires, to a micro switch mounted on a bracket at the shifter, when the car is in park the switch is closed.

As we all know that you need to put the brake on to take it out of park, that way it resets every time I drive it and dont need to worry about it.

This. ^^

As there are many other people who are going to read this, just crimp some spade terminals onto the wires and run it to a switch, that way you can easily reset the code every month or two.

Leon seems to think everyone is an electronics guru, but there is absolutely no need to automate such a simple signal. All the ecu needs is a 5 second burst of power which is easily automated but I have seen so many wiring faults caused by DIY brake cut fiddling after owners reading threads like this... Now I just recommend the simple wire cut. (unless you feel very confident).

Lol, I know there are lots of guys who aren't gurus of any sort, so I too recommend the simple switch (which was how I ran mine for ages). But this mod comes up so often that once people wrap their heads around the (very simple) concept, it invariably leads to alternatives being discussed. And from memory, I think you Scotty came up with a few left field ideas in the other thread..... :)

All I did was cut and extended the wires, to a micro switch mounted on a bracket at the shifter, when the car is in park the switch is closed.

As we all know that you need to put the brake on to take it out of park, that way it resets every time I drive it and dont need to worry about it.

Now this ^^ is pure gold. Great idea Gary :thumbsup:

Edited by Commsman
  • 2 months later...

I just done this last night ... But there is 2 pink and black trace

I found pin 55 an cut and put a switch on but I didn't notice any difference really..

Maybe I was expecting to much..

Will still only stall up 2g maybe 2 1/2

You may have some gearbox fault codes now...

The ECU for the engine is behind the glovebox.

Thanks Scotty

Took all for 5 min... Easy...

But I don't notice a big difference...

Not sure what I was expecting tho

Easy mod

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
    • Heh. I copied the link to the video direct, instead of the thread I mentioned. But the video is the main value content anyway. Otherwise, yes, in Europe, surely you'd be expected to buy local. Being whichever flavour of Michelin, Continental or Pirelli suits your usage model.
×
×
  • Create New...