Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/437091-random-r33-gtst-skyline-parts/ <link to thread with pics

i have a heap of leftover parts from several r33's i have stripped. if you need a part not listed just ask. i have boxes of random stuff.

Feel free to make an offer. keen to clean out my garage. I have put pics of some parts up.

Also happy to sell the whole lot for an awesome price if anybody is interested.

Purple passenger pr drivers mirror 25
purple rear bumper bar 40
airconditioner condenser 70
random aircon hoses ask
power steering rack 70
hicas rack 70
speedo cluster 192km 50
radiator shroud 40
washer bottle 20
rubber gearbox gearstick cover 15
shifter surround 30
kick pannell 20
gearbox flex plate 30
NA brake callipers think rear 70
jack 30
bonnet latch 30
aircon compressor 70
charcole canister 15
silver driver side tail light 35
low + high pressure power steering lines 40
clitch master + clutch line 60
clutch master 40
coilpack loom 35
horns 20
aeriel with cable 40
some skyline mats not full set 30
bonnet cable 30
under steering wheel colum cover 20
clear skyline rear tail light garnish 30
random nissan clutch slave. Unsure what it fits. Maybe sr? 30
rb25 gearbox shifter with gear knob 40
r33 centre dash vent undamaged 40
space saver 4 and 5 stud 30
radius arm rods 40
right hand side front lca control arm 40
r33 half shafts left and right 70
injector loom 30
s1 wiper indicator stalk 30
s2 wiper indicator stalk 40
s2 passanger airbag 40
centre radiator / bonnet catch support 40
radiator overflow tank 30
driver side a pillar 25
brake and clutch peddle 40
r33 metal window seal. Bolts to car above door 30
sunroof motor 30
light with sunroof control 25
interior light 20
hand brake cable 20
several clock springs 30
glovebox 30
airbag computer 30
climate control units 30
brown windscreen wiper relay box 30
illuminted ring for round ignition barrel 20
amber side indicators with silver surround 20
aircon reciever dryer 35
battery hold down clamp 20
top radiator holders 20
single din sized pocked for under radio 20
heaps of seatbelts 25
several starter motors 35
tyre iron 20
windscreen wiper motor 30
ecu bracket 20

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/437093-random-r33-gtst-skyline-parts/
Share on other sites

Pm sent about fan. Dont have a heater box atm sorry.

Extra parts I found. keep asking, more here still

glove box with lid and catch 30
sun visors 30
sunroof motor 30
peddles 25 each
bonnet catch 30
wiper arms 15 each
undamaged dash windscreen vent 40
range of seatbelts 30 each
climate control 30
turbo manual cluster 152km's 90
cluster surround 20
rear vision mirror 20
all rubber door and window seals. ask for price
rear wiper motor 30
interior light with sunroof control 30
interior light 20
drivers door plastic inner door handle window switch holder - suits repaint or covering 20
ashtray 30
passenger inner a pillar plastic 15
range of vents 15
inner door handles 20
seat bolt covers 10
roof handles 25
kick panel 15
rear parcel shelf vents 30
outside b pillar plastic 35

Edited by coaster
  • 7 months later...
  • 1 year later...


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Who did you have do the installation? I actually know someone who is VERY familiar with the AVS gear. The main point of contact though would be your installer.   Where are you based in NZ?
    • Look, realistically, those are some fairly chunky connectors and wires so it is a reasonably fair bet that that loom was involved in the redirection of the fuel pump and/or ECU/ignition power for the immobiliser. It's also fair to be that the new immobiliser is essentially the same thing as the old one, and so it probably needs the same stuff done to make it do what it has to do. Given that you are talking about a car that no-one else here is familiar with (I mean your exact car) and an alarm that I've never heard of before and so probably not many others are familiar with, and that some wire monkey has been messing with it out of our sight, it seems reasonable that the wire monkey should be fixing this.
    • Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
×
×
  • Create New...