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Missed out on the cheap price for the SS, stupid Mark not getting all his personal administration in order, oh well, It will still be awesome x1 million.

Also painted side mirrors satin black to match the roof, why you may ask, because I had some paint and was bored.

Thanks for the links.

The main problem is there is nowhere for the air to exit, most (all) cars have some form of venting built into them, alas the MX5 is designed like a parachute when fitted with a hard top, I will get some MX5 dash vents from the wreckers and install them at the rear of the parcel shelf, I will then duct it out the back and have it exit on the passenger side utilising the little tool bin thingy in the boot.

Im guestimating that it is a low pressure area so air should be sucked out whilst driving.

2 each of these bits, just need a hole saw to suit and some balls to do it.

Installed where I drew the boobies.

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  • 2 weeks later...

After nearly being rear ended whilst sitting at traffic lights I took a idea that my mate did to his car, I fitted a flasher unit to my boot lid brake light.

Hopefully a flashing red light might catch the eye of the next idiot who isn't paying attention when driving.

Fitted Sparco 4 point, fitted fixed seat, fitted fire extinguisher, bled brakes, emptied glove box, checked all fluids and oils and removed floor mats.

Race prep done for Sunday, LOL

After a round at Wakefield the Silver Slug has showed a few failings, the diff is garbage and single pegging, looking at a KAAZ 1.5 to sort this out, the RE002 are not good either so some Semi's will be looked at after the diff is done.

Brakes held up fine so no dramas there.

Very small engine leak discovered, only very minor but I threw in some NULON stop leak to hopefully soften up the gaskets and get them sealing better, then I found out it might be the power steering leaking at a connection which I will attempt to tighten later, the leak only turns up on the track.

Trying to decide if I want to get another motor to rebuild over time or just get the one in it done. nothing overly major, basic bottom end rebuild with better rods, all balanced, head rebuilt and shaved to up compression a bit, some cams and a ECU so everything talks nicely, and not a turbo in sight.

I also want a Ishift for it so I don't have to keep looking at the tacho.

After turboing 3 mx-5's, i wouldn't bother doing anything with the motor except a turbo, the first b6 na went from 58rwkw to 165 with no internal mods, and was thrashed daily for 6 months till it was written off, and the b8's respond even better. How do you find the chassis stiffness, the last one i did we fitted a full butterfly brace, and it seemed stiff as.

I don't have a problem with the stiffness of the chassis.

As for turbo's, been there done that, not interested, yes I know you can make easy power with a turbo but I would have to rebuild it anyway to get some form of reliability.

Owning the 5 is not about making big power, if I wanted big power I would put a turbo on it after a rebuild and make 1??kw or 13BT it and make well over 300kw or a big lazy V8, but if I end up making 90ish KWATW and can daily it and run some super sprints and its reliable for a few years I will be happy.

As for power, a member is making 94ish atwkw in his 5 and doing 1.11's at Wakie, learning to drive it properly and set up will assist me in smoking cars with twice my power around the track, I learnt my lesson with my old Skyline that lots of power = lots of hassles when it comes to reliability and the amount of money spent on consumables like gearbox's, tyres and brakes and everything else that comes from running a motor hot and hard.

Plus I'm only in it for some fun and the only times I want to beat are my own.

But this is what it would look like if won LOTTO >

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  • 4 weeks later...

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    • The other problem was one of those "oh shit we are going to die moments". Basically the high spec Q50s have a full electric steering rack, and the povo ones had a regular hydraulic rack with an electric pump.  So couple of laps into session 5 as I came into turn 2 (big run off now, happily), the dash turned into a christmas tree and the steering became super heavy and I went well off. I assumed it was a tyre failure so limped to the pits, but everything was OK. But....the master warning light was still on so I checked the DTCs and saw – C13E6 “Heat Protection”. Yes, that bloody steering rack computer sitting where the oil cooler should be has its own sensors and error logic, and decided I was using the steering wheel too much. I really appreciated the helpful information in the manual (my bold) POSSIBLE CAUSE • Continuing the overloading steering (Sports driving in the circuit etc,) “DATA MONITOR” >> “C/M TEMPERATURE”. The rise of steering force motor internal temperature caused the protection function to operate. This is not a system malfunction. INSPECTION END So, basically the electric motor in the steering rack got to 150c, and it decided to shut down without warning for my safety. Didn't feel safe. Short term I'll see if I can duct some air to that motor (the engine bay is sealed pretty tight). Long term, depending on how often this happens, I'll look into swapping the povo spec electric/hydraulic rack in. While the rack should be fine the power supply to the pump will be a pain and might be best to deal with it when I add a PDM.
    • And finally, 2 problems I really need to sort.  Firstly as Matt said the auto trans is not happy as it gets hot - I couldn't log the temps but the gauge showed 90o. On the first day I took it out back in Feb, because the coolant was getting hot I never got to any auto trans issues; but on this day by late session 3 and then really clearly in 4 and 5 as it got hotter it just would not shift up. You can hear the issue really clearly at 12:55 and 16:20 on the vid. So the good news is, literally this week Ecutek finally released tuning for the jatco 7 speed. I'll have a chat to Racebox and see what they can do electrically to keep it cooler and to get the gears, if anything. That will likely take some R&D and can only really happen on track as it never gets even warm with road use. I've also picked up some eye wateringly expensive Redline D6 ATF to try, it had the highest viscosity I could find at 100o so we will see if that helps (just waiting for some oil pan gaskets so I can change it properly). If neither of those work I need to remove the coolant/trans interwarmer and the radiator cooler and go to an external cooler....somewhere.....(goodbye washer reservoir?), and if that fails give up on this mad idea and wait for Nissan to release the manual 400R
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