Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

It seems that scuffing and cleaning with grease and wax remover isn't enough for the VHT manifold paint to be happy enough to stick to the headers.

I blame the blue paint stuff that the headers were coated with from new, I shall leave it for a while and hope that the heat gets rid of it, then Ill remove them and prep them again and hope it sticks.

I might go for a long drive and find some twisties to get some heat in them.

The headers have also made the car a fair bit louder too, I believe I may be the oldest ricer in NSW.

Oh, and like usual the straight swap "bolt on headers" needed to be shortened and the flange clocked for them to fit.

Try brake cleaner.

Also I know them ricer feels..

(But not the old bit :P ).

Was the torque loss that bad?

I was going to do something similar in my car but if the torque loss is that bad I might mod the K&N intake I have instead.

It was noticeable, and with the 5 not having many torques losing any n not good.

Take 2

Cleaned with wax and grease remover then sanded, then again with wax and grease remover, then with some brake cleaner, then painted with VHT MANIFOLD PAINT, then cured with a heat gun stuck up the collector, then wrapped.

1" wrap on primaries 2" on secondaries with 50% overlap, I then sprayed with more VHT.

Fitted and run at idle to smoke like 10 smoking things (which is normal after wrapping), let cool than went for a 1/2 hr spin.

Hopefully finished this time.

post-52431-0-04027400-1408770613_thumb.jpg

Raised car a bit, hub to guard is 325 front and 330 rear.

Clearance is 110mm so legal too which is a bonus.

I need to raise mine up too, the tyres are rubbing on the guards and I need to fix the bump steer.

Have you had a problem with bump steer at the track?

I need to raise mine up too, the tyres are rubbing on the guards and I need to fix the bump steer.

Have you had a problem with bump steer at the track?

Not really, but then maybe I haven't been noticing.

It did have some witness marks inside the front guards though so I had run out of travel on a few occasions.

And I've missed out on more motorsport than I care to think about, either work or family commitments have spoilt my "selfish me time".

At least I get to watch some live at Muscle Car Masters this Sunday.

I am actually looking forward to doing a hill climb (Huntley) for the first time.

I'm just waiting for the stars to align, or when I win LOTTO and can retire and live the life I should be accustomed to..

  • 1 month later...

Another ghetto air box, I think I'm up to version 5 now.

Also some CG Locks for both seats, no where as good as a harness but legal, they do lock your hips well into the seat though.

Its also coming up for a major service so its time for a new timing belt, runners, gaskets, seals and water pump.

I may pull the head for a shave to bump up the comp a little bit when doing the belt but not sure and still asking questions.

Was quoted just under $300 for all major service parts, mechanic neighbour is doing the job for a couple of hundred and some beer, my job is to pass tools and keep the beer flowing.

post-52431-0-74290300-1414562817_thumb.jpg

post-52431-0-92089700-1414562836_thumb.jpg

After lots of looking around at different styles and theories I decided to get a MULLER vent to put on the roof.

Slim line jobbie.

Hopefully this will help keep the cab temp down a bit, got back to the car after the beach and it was like driving home in a sauna.

Will post up pics when its painted and fitted.

Worst case scenario is a screw the hardtop and need to get a new one, I will be doing lots of measuring and minimal amounts of cutting.

I use to do this sort of fab work for a living 1 million years ago, surely I haven't lost all my hacking stuff up skills.

Fingers crossed.

In relation to my servicing kit, I got Gates timing belt, all runners, gaskets, seals, jap water pump and cam cover gasket for $200 delivered from MX5 PLUS in Queensland, $100 cheaper than pick up in Sydney, LOL.

Not 100% sure with the Muller vent so got this:

And new discs and pads.

Im taking some long service leave soon so I should be able to fill in some time fitting and chopping stuff.

post-52431-0-02447400-1415444158_thumb.jpg

Timing belt and major service done, no more leaky cam seals.

New rotors and brakes in.

I want to take a trip to the states and pick up some parts, will end up way cheaper than buying from Australia even after the cost of flights and accommodation.

Timing belt and major service done, no more leaky cam seals.

New rotors and brakes in.

I want to take a trip to the states and pick up some parts, will end up way cheaper than buying from Australia even after the cost of flights and accommodation.

I need to do all of this, it's my holiday project. :)

I'm starting to look at shiny headers to match my new air box.

I forgot I got this so I threw it on for a look, I needed to trim it up a bit and I put a sticker on it so it works better.

Lol @ mark giving up and buying one.

I just finished my cover. :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GCG is a good company, they're a major distributor for Garrett in Japan as well.
    • Nah, OEM washer bottle and brake fluid reservoirs are fine I don't know what it is with the plastic that Mazda used, some plastics, like the washer bottle and brake fluid res are fine, and still look new after 20 years use, where as the coolant expansion tank, and PS reservoir, that I replaced with new OEM items when I first got the car, turned yellow and started getting brittle a few years later If the dirty yellow stained plastics didn't trigger me there wouldn't be an issue, but they did, much like the battery bracket....... Meh As for going back to work full time to support car stuff, nope, why, because I own a Mazda NC MX5, not a Nissan R series Skyline 🤣
    • I've never heard of CJ-motor, so can't advise you on them. I'd just go straight to GCG for a GCG highflow though. Seems no point to use a middleman. I'm somewhat surprised that the price on the CJ site is lower than the GCG retail price. Even though CJ would get a discount of some sort, you would hardly expect them to give up so much margin. Maybe the price is out of date? Having said that "I'd go to GCG"...when I did my highflow, I went to Hypergear. I did this https://hypergearturbos.com/product/rb25dethighflow/#tab-dyno-results with the R34 OP6 450HP profile. With the BB centre (extra $400) and intially with the standard boost actuator, but I eventually got him to send me the high pressure one when I got to the point of being able to actually use it. Ends up costing the same sort of money as the GCG highflow, but this is, of course, the turbo that I KNOW has a shorter length core and so moves the comp cover rearwards. The GCG apparently doesn't do that. My mechanic also swears by the GCG highflow, given that we have another turbo rebuilder who does something essentialy the same as theirs, using Garrett wheels. He says it stands up at really low revs and makes good power. I haven't pushed my HG highflow past ~240-250rwkW yet (should have a little more in it, but unclear how much) and it does have a fairly gentle boost ramp. OK, it's much better now that I have gotten my boost controller tuned up on it.  A lot of my earlier unhappiness was because I couldn't keep the wastegate flap as closed as it needed to be (including some mechanical issues). I'd still prefer it to boost up nearly as quickly as the stocker, and it certainly a bit slower than that. So maybe the GCG one is worth the first look (for you).
    • Ok thanks 🙂 I will higly consider this. Any "known" company for a good reviews and experience to send that off? Is that CJ-motor good one? Or go straight to GCG site? I need to use VPN to even find some of those "shops" let alone access them 🙂 
    • You can literally put in as much WMI as it takes to quench the combustion totally (and then back it off a little, obviously), and it will keep making more and more power. The power comes from the cooling effect of the water (and the meth) and the extra fuel (the meth, which also has massive octane). It is effectively exactly like running E85. One might be slightly better than the other, but they are damn close. But with either you can lean on the boost or the timing (or both) waaaay more than with just petrol and the results are similar. Here's the first thing I googled for an anecdotal bit of evidence. Can't access the attachment without being a gold member, but it is there for the getting if able to, or searched up elsewise perhaps. https://www.hpacademy.com/forum/general-tuning-discussion/show/wmi-vs-e85/
×
×
  • Create New...