Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi everyone,

For sale is a front brake upgrade kit that will easily bolt on to your r32 gtst, gtr and R33 gsts, and will fit 18 inch rims. it can be ADR approved for your road rego.

The kit is 100% australian made in my engineering workshop located in Helensburgh nsw.

The kit includes:

Brackets machined in our state of the art CNC mill, 1030 grade steel.

Rotors are 434mm dia and the top of the line DBA 4000 series T slot that have thermo paint so you can see how hard you have pushed.

Braded stainless steel hoses have all the relivent ADR stamping for road use.

Pads were chosen for their high performance and with maximum rotor life.

Fluid is ELF racing fluid 5.1

Bolts and high tensile

Spares are available for everything when needed.

Free delivery in sydney and illawarra.

Only $1400.

Cheers

Colin

0416090676

[email protected]

post-84415-0-31587500-1388883796.jpgpost-84415-0-80352400-1388883812_thumb.jpgpost-84415-0-33216000-1388883828_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/437149-front-brake-upgrade-r32-r33/
Share on other sites

Do you sell the R32 GTR Dog bone brakets on their own for the Nissan Sumitomo calipers?

If so how much, wondering the price diffrence with yours for 343mm to the current ones on the market for a 324mm front conversion?

Sounds like your using a 343mm front rotor from the Harrop upgraded VT to VZ HSV models which are also 32mm thick.

Quite a bit of that rotor wont see pad contact on the inside without bigger calipers.

Edited by GTRPSI
  • Like 1

thanks GTSBoy nice pick up :) i was a bit tired when i posted.

thanks GTRPSI for the interest, the rotors DBA supply me have their own order unique order number, i couldnt tell you if they are used for any other model they wouldnt tell me. im not sure of the other kit you mention, the brakets are only available as part of the full kit.

Hi gtr jet, thanks for your interest, the specs of the rotors are DBA series 4000 "T" slotted, these are hardened and ground they are 343mm dia and 32mm thick, they are arguably the best rotors made in Australia, this is why they were selected.

These DBA rotors are custom made and will only suit the offset of our dog bone brakets. spare rotors are available when needed but you would be doing well wearing these things out. I could give you the order number but you would have to find a DBA distributer and there is a minimum level you would have to order.

One of the reasons we decided to make this kit was becuase my mate bought a cheap imported kit that didnt impress us.......the problems were the supply of spare parts and the quality, we needed to buy rotors and they said we had to buy the entire kit again to get them.

So our thinking was that there was a need for a top of the line kit that was still within peoples budget with replacement parts readily available, and made proudly locally in Australia.

Thanks for the reply mate. The reason I asked is because I'm looking for that sized rotor with an offset to fit my calipers.

Would you mind giving me the dimensions of your rotors and if they fit I'll grab some off you?

no worries im more than happy to help, at the moment however im just selling the kits as a full kit, the chances of these rotors having the correct offset would next to nothing as they were made to suit our dog bone which is unique. sorry i couldnt be more help.

  • Like 1

Hi The sherrid, i have had a engineering report done on the kit, and i am working closely with an engineering company that can sign them off, i can pass on their details to you if you like.

thanks for the question

Thank for the support :) we love our track days !!!

As an added incentive im happy to have kits fitted by our licenced MTA approved mechanic in helensburgh, for everyone that contacts and buys through Skylines australia forum :)

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...
  • 5 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...