Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys,

i couldnt find anything specific to this so here goes.

i regularly have to travel for 4-8 weeks at a time with work so its not uncommon for my 32 GTR to not be started for said periods.. now ive found over the last 9 months, my car is deteriorating in how rough it is on cold start after a break... early last yeah it wasnt a problem, during startthe engine would shake for the first 3-5 seconds (while i assume it properly lubricated itself) and most recently after 6 weeks from christmas swhen i started it, it didnt just shake it sounded like something clanging within the engine, i was instantly about to cut ignition, however after 2-4 seconds the clanging stopped and she sorted herself out... my car runs perefectly smooth at all other times.

is this a problem (obviously not ideal), and is there anything i can or should do to avoid it, either before i leave or prior to starting? the oil is changed every 4000k or therabouts so is always in good condition, oil pressure is always fine etc etc.

thoughts?

cheers

Dan

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/437780-cold-start-after-4weeks/
Share on other sites

yeah I got this too (the clackety clanging, not the shaking) when I go away n then come back n go to restart the car. so now when i go to restart my car I crank it until it almost fires n then shut it off. I do this 3-5 times which pumps oil around the motor without it coming up to any serious revs and so that when I do let it fire it doesn't make the clackety clunk routine. Having said this it was on my GTST and was most likely the hydraulic lifters needing some oil in them. Nonetheless, It still may fix what your issue is too in some way as the motor would be getting pretty dry after 4-8 weeks. But if it doesn't, maybe look for some more extreme elements of wear in the motor...

Beyond this, it sounds like your car is struggling to get fuel or spark to a cylinder for a bit hence the shaking (sounds like a misfire).

Edited by jjman

Sounds like your fuel may be bad from sitting so long in the tank, and or the plugs are a little fould from spending the majority of their time running on bad fuel or a little rich while warming up.

Id put some fresh fuel in and a new set of plugs first and go from there.

You could also have a case of a sticking gummed up injector from sitting there for so long.....

Edited by GTRPSI

thanks for the responses guys!

so to sum up this is either caused by oil draining from the cylanders, or my plugs have fouled from bad/stagnant fuel?, and so by either removing spark plugs or CAS when first turning it over (untill guage registeres oil pressure) then refitting will prevent this happenning in future? (cant really do anything about fuel as i cant replace the fuel without starting her up and taking her to a servo).

if i wasnt to do this, will it damage the engine? or would the wear be negligible?

The rough running is typical of sticking injectors, regular use of injector cleaner will help.

this is true.

if you are still running the stock OEM R32 GTR injectors then id say you would be very wise to upgrade to some new and or bigger ones + tune.

bad injectors are as quick a way to kill a motor as a bad fuel pump- well almost...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It says 300ZX, does that make it an Aus delivered car? Funny how back in the day I just couldn't care less about Z32's and these days I am just in love with them. Back when Nissan was into pushing the envelope. 🤣
    • Hi guys, just after some guidance with an R34 sunroof that has stopped working correctly. It still opens and closes perfectly fine, but it no longer tilts/vents up or down. As a result, the rear of the glass now sags a bit as it drops down slightly in order to retract into the roof, but now it can't pop upwards into a flush position. I’ve probed the pins on the back of the switch connector with a multimeter and it seems like both switches (for open/close and tilt/vent) still work correctly. Any ideas on what it could be, or where I should even start in terms of diagnosing? I'm sure someone's had this issue before but I haven't been able to find anything online relating to this specific issue, most of the issues are with the seals leaking or the motor failing entirely. Thanks in advance!
    • Do you have some data like fuel pressure? It's really hard to say if you're still fighting a fuel system issue at this point. Could be something weird like the FPCM dipping out.
    • Yeah in that case, pulling the dent out. Event a very slight dent can create a lot of work filler-wise and there is a strong chance the panel won't be the factory shape when you are done (as the dent will result in a new high point created somewhere, then everything is brought up to that new high point... but the panel shouldn't be that high if that makes sense).  So you've filled and primed the panel and it is flat, why would you go back and remove the primer and add more filler? 
    • Something else I have been faffing with while the car was off the road is making the AC work. Assuming the car isn't at a thermal limit the idea of having AC while waiting in line to go on track sounds delightful. I have actually been lugging around the weight of the entire system since 2018 when the RB25NEO went in without it working at all.  The main reason was in the first few events before I got around to re-gassing it the rubber hose that runs under the manifold had the factory heat wrap/sleeve fail resulting in this: ~2 years ago I purchased a complete used R32 AC line set but when I finally went to install it the line i needed was different where the expansion section is I found a local place that was able to replace the rubber section and re-crimp. They also added some modern heat sleeve to the hose Tight fit but fingers crossed this is the last physical piece of the puzzle needed
×
×
  • Create New...