Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey, so before anyone says use the search tool! I have spent pretty much the last week living on here and other websites while my car has been at a Mechanic who didn't find a solution, so i have the car back now

So I have an R33 GTS4 (Non turbo). I went for a drive the other day and sometimes whiling cruising there would suddenly be loss of power and it came back, then at most sets of lights and roundabouts when i came to a stop the engine cut out and stalled. Then i had trouble turning back over, only way to get going was giving it a lot of revs and looking like a complete tool. It's quite stressful and scary in heavy traffic.

I have searched and there could be a million different things that could be wrong and there is no point spending money replacing everything when it could be one simple thing. And a lot of forums end up talking about BOV problems which i don't have.

I recently put NGK iridium plugs in

Cleaned the AAC idle control

The mechanic Checked all vacuum hoses and the AFM (which has appeared to been opened and cleaned once already).

I new to skylines, I have no idea whats wrong, im just guessing all different things. I don't know what to look for.

Thanks in advance for help!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/438004-stalling-and-start-up-issues/
Share on other sites

I'm pretty sure the AFM has been cleaned (has non-factory silicone around window suggesting it has been opened) , the mechanic checked it. Is it possible to check the CAS?

I tried starting up today, the first two times motor turned over started and then die straight away. Third time turned over idled roughly 10 minutes before stalling.

I have a R33 GTS-4 as well and I sometimes have the same issue, and I could never figure out why! Mine seems a little less serious though, mine will always start every time and wont backfire or cut out on idle. It only does it if I'm driving and I pull up to lights and pop it in neutral and brake, sometimes it will cut out. Sometimes if I start it back up straight after it will idle high (nearly 2k RPM) until i turn the car off and remove the key and wait a while. My car beeps 5 times after it is turned off too, I think it's the fuel pump that might do it, because my car is completely stock other than a Bosch 044 fuel pump which has been in since purchase, but I am no expert when it comes to cars.

The only way I avoid this issue is engine braking down gears to second and when pulling up to lights only putting it into neutral once its under 1k RPM.

Yeah it's a bit worrying when it's so random and in heavy traffic.

But I did order a consult port cable and plugged it in, and it brought up Code 12 : Mass air flow circuit. So I just ordered a new sensor should be here soon!

Because they're still worth a bit, I found a little information about the AFM so you can try fix the old one

Clean your afms - take them out, spray liberally with brake cleaner.

Then, resolder the PCB joints: if you look at the afm as it sits in the car, there's a big black square box bit on top of the AFM - facing you - the connector plugs into the side of this. This is the bit where the AFM pcb sits. It's filled with black silicon. Cut around the edges (carefully) with a sharp knife and remove the block of silicon. You'll then see the PCB with solder joints to the connector plug - these break down with age. Resolder them, and replace the silicon block with a dab of fresh black silicon goo.

Yeah for sure thanks.

I did some research into cleaning of the afms, as it appears that my old one has already been opened. It doesn't look like original silicon, looks like someone has played around with it.

Clean the AFM with CRC MAF Cleaner or Electrical Contact Cleaner. Use Nothing that will leave any oily residue on the internals.

Reset the ECU by disconnecting the NEGATIVE battery Terminal and hold/pump the brakes for 30 secs to use up any residual power in the circuitry.

maybe even turn on headlights etc, anything to drain power. Reconnect Battery. (if you have an alarm, disable it before you disconnect the Battery)

Sorry i haven't replied been smashed with homework and study. Replaced the MAF appeared to fix the problems. i just have a missfire now which i am pretty sure is the coilpacks. Thanks for everyone's help! :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I have been being VERY quiet about what you're alluding to, as it is something that ticks me off... The number of cars from factory that run coil overs is HUGE! Most of them these days do... The other part that annoys me, is people saying "Well all the incabin adjustable suspension is illegal by blah blah blah"... If that's the case, then why can I buy a car brand new that can do it if, FULL STOP in cabin adjustable suspension is illegal...   Also, I could just chuck some aftermarket shocks in my car, throw the stock springs on, after my blue slip, dump my super low springs back in. Same shock and spring style setup... Hell, they could also be the same colour springs etc.     I'm voting, BlueSlipper didn't want to touch the above car for some reason. Whether it be some sort of bias against the car, the owner, them maybe having previously done dodgy shit and now they're being super careful in case they get slapped in the face by the Gumbyment again... Find a new blueslip place.   And can confirm as you had said, yes there are holy bibles of vehicle heights, and all sorts of other suspension stuff. Heck your run of the mill mechanic, and tyre shop has access to all of that stuff. It's how they do wheel alignments...
    • Funny story Heading to Sydney this morning on the HWY there was some slow traffic, so I gave it the beans and midway through my overtaking "power run" I lost all power It seems that I missed a hose clamp,  and the MAF and filter went WiFi To make this more problematic, the little tool kit that lives in the boot, is sitting in the sun room at Goulburn......LOL Luckily for me I found a bit of steel on the side of the road that could be used like a rusty and bent flat head screw driver to tighten it up enough that it got me into Sydney, it is now all tight like a tiger with the aid of a 8mm socket Note to self: Use my brain and double check stuff, and always keep that little tool kit in the car for when I have a brain fart
    • Oh, and as for everyone with their fuel economy changes, I switch between E10 and 98 in the company car. Even do when I had personal cars that could run on E10. You know what changed my fuel economy in any noticeable way? How I drove, and where I drove. Otherwise, say on full tanks of just back and forth from work only (So same trips, same sort of traffic), couldn't notice a difference that I can correlate to the type of fuel in use. In the current vehicle, that's over 42L of USABLE fuel. While 98 is all "more energy dense", it also has higher knock resistance as it takes more energy to get it to ignite too. The longer hydrocarbons, typically more tightly bound. So running the same ignition map, can also produce less power, if there isn't enough time to get it all burnt through properly, as yep, the flame propagation speed is different from lower octane fuel to higher (Higher has a lower flame propagation, due to the more tightly bound and harder to self ignite funs. This is also typically where, a vehicle that is designed purely to run on 91 (Whether it be E10 or normal 91) usually sees absolutely no real world difference in fuel economy for the normal man, woman, or dog.
    • We've got some servos around me that have 91 with E10, 91 (no E10), 95, and 98. At those stations the change from 91 E10 to 91, is typically around 8c/L.   But lets not get started on the price of fuel in Oz. It's ridiculous. All the service stations around me, bar one, the price of fuel has been over the $2 mark per litre for the cheapest, 98 being around $2.45. That one service station is a CostCo, fuel from it comes from the same refineries, and makes no pitstops, it runs great, including the 98. In fact, I've had no issues on CostCo fuel, but plenty of issues at other stations!. The CostCo fuel, was $1.65 roughly this week for 94 with E10. $1.88 for 98. Servos directly across from it, $2.10 for 91 E10, and $2.48 for 98. The part I had to laugh at? If I drive multiple HOURS away from Brisbane, say out near Nanango, or Kingaroy, or even out to Goondiwindi, the price of their fuel, is the same as what it is at the CostCo... Oh, and that BP servo at Goondiwindi is HUGE and goes through epic turnover of fuel, so it's not sitting there for weeks going to shit. And what blows me away, my mate is one of the people who drives the Fuel Tanker all around QLD, delivering to all those places. At the same company his previous role was doing the "local haul" deliveries... Same truck, same driver, same pickup point it all comes from. So you tell me, how the hell it is 60c/L CHEAPER for fuel, when nearly all else is equal, except they require a B-Double to drive half a day out of Brisbane, and half a day back, every second day, compared to the delivery that can be under 30 minutes drive from the fuel pickup point... Not to mention, go five blocks down the road, and Ampol to Ampol will vary 30c/L... And I've had this conversation with my mate... The way it's priced, is just typical, pure and utter rubbish... He also does runs from Brisbane, to all over QLD, down to Newcastle, Sydney, Nowra, Melbourne, Geelong, and even out to parts of the NT depending on the companies needs. His main stuff is all the longer distance away from home for a few days at a time, then when he's back, he loves to just pickup extra shifts wherever he can in whichever truck, hence all the weird different places.   Oh, as for getting E10 into all the fuels in Australia... It was very quickly highlighted, that we don't have enough biomass available to use to make E10 sustainably like they require, and it would dramatically cut into our, and the worlds food chain supply...   I vote we all just start running on liquid methane gas... Plenty of that just getting tapped off at tips from underground decay... (Note, this is pure just stupid commenting. I could very easily highlight the reasons its not a good idea especially on scale...)
    • Am I correct in assuming that the R35's are getting the classic skyline haircut off the odometer?  Quick search on carsales, there are 33 08 and 09 GTR's for sale, only 2 of them have more then 100,000km's on them (116,075 and 110,000 respectively).  And somehow there are about 25 for sale with around 60,000kms? Looks like the classic skyline haircut to me =/
×
×
  • Create New...