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Stalling And Start Up Issues

buster1996

By buster1996,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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buster1996 Apprentice

buster1996

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Hey, so before anyone says use the search tool! I have spent pretty much the last week living on here and other websites while my car has been at a Mechanic who didn't find a solution, so i have the car back now

So I have an R33 GTS4 (Non turbo). I went for a drive the other day and sometimes whiling cruising there would suddenly be loss of power and it came back, then at most sets of lights and roundabouts when i came to a stop the engine cut out and stalled. Then i had trouble turning back over, only way to get going was giving it a lot of revs and looking like a complete tool. It's quite stressful and scary in heavy traffic.

I have searched and there could be a million different things that could be wrong and there is no point spending money replacing everything when it could be one simple thing. And a lot of forums end up talking about BOV problems which i don't have.

I recently put NGK iridium plugs in

Cleaned the AAC idle control

The mechanic Checked all vacuum hoses and the AFM (which has appeared to been opened and cleaned once already).

I new to skylines, I have no idea whats wrong, im just guessing all different things. I don't know what to look for.

Thanks in advance for help!

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buster1996 Apprentice

buster1996

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I'm pretty sure the AFM has been cleaned (has non-factory silicone around window suggesting it has been opened) , the mechanic checked it. Is it possible to check the CAS?

I tried starting up today, the first two times motor turned over started and then die straight away. Third time turned over idled roughly 10 minutes before stalling.

thurrzor Contributor

thurrzor

Posted
Posted

I have a R33 GTS-4 as well and I sometimes have the same issue, and I could never figure out why! Mine seems a little less serious though, mine will always start every time and wont backfire or cut out on idle. It only does it if I'm driving and I pull up to lights and pop it in neutral and brake, sometimes it will cut out. Sometimes if I start it back up straight after it will idle high (nearly 2k RPM) until i turn the car off and remove the key and wait a while. My car beeps 5 times after it is turned off too, I think it's the fuel pump that might do it, because my car is completely stock other than a Bosch 044 fuel pump which has been in since purchase, but I am no expert when it comes to cars.

The only way I avoid this issue is engine braking down gears to second and when pulling up to lights only putting it into neutral once its under 1k RPM.

buster1996 Apprentice

buster1996

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Yeah it's a bit worrying when it's so random and in heavy traffic.

But I did order a consult port cable and plugged it in, and it brought up Code 12 : Mass air flow circuit. So I just ordered a new sensor should be here soon!

thurrzor Contributor

thurrzor

Posted
Posted

Because they're still worth a bit, I found a little information about the AFM so you can try fix the old one

Clean your afms - take them out, spray liberally with brake cleaner.

Then, resolder the PCB joints: if you look at the afm as it sits in the car, there's a big black square box bit on top of the AFM - facing you - the connector plugs into the side of this. This is the bit where the AFM pcb sits. It's filled with black silicon. Cut around the edges (carefully) with a sharp knife and remove the block of silicon. You'll then see the PCB with solder joints to the connector plug - these break down with age. Resolder them, and replace the silicon block with a dab of fresh black silicon goo.

buster1996 Apprentice

buster1996

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Yeah for sure thanks.

I did some research into cleaning of the afms, as it appears that my old one has already been opened. It doesn't look like original silicon, looks like someone has played around with it.

Got a Pulsar Grand Master

Got a Pulsar

Posted
Posted

Clean the AFM with CRC MAF Cleaner or Electrical Contact Cleaner. Use Nothing that will leave any oily residue on the internals.

Reset the ECU by disconnecting the NEGATIVE battery Terminal and hold/pump the brakes for 30 secs to use up any residual power in the circuitry.

maybe even turn on headlights etc, anything to drain power. Reconnect Battery. (if you have an alarm, disable it before you disconnect the Battery)

buster1996 Apprentice

buster1996

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Sorry i haven't replied been smashed with homework and study. Replaced the MAF appeared to fix the problems. i just have a missfire now which i am pretty sure is the coilpacks. Thanks for everyone's help! :)

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