Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I fitted some Defi gauges a little while back with the intention of fitting an oil cooler but never got around to doing so and felt if my temps (with light track work) never got too bad I wouldn't worry with the cooler. But as the factory Nissan temp sensor is M12 x1.25 thread and the defi sensor is 1/8NPT I could never fit the temp sender and effectively had a useless gauge. I spent ages trying to find an adapter through just about every gauge, fitting, performance site and store within Australia and could only come up with suppliers from the UK with shipping worth more than I could justify. I could find adapters that were M12 x 1.50 and M12 x 1.00 but not 1.25 as it's a very odd size.

Finally I found a local supplier on ebay that sells them - http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Metric-Male-M12x1-25-To-Female-1-8-NPT-Also-Use-For-Pfira03-Fitting-/151195760051?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2333f835b3

All I did was fit an o-ring around the M12 thread that goes into the factory oil temp sensor location to seal it up (thread sealant would do the same but I didn't have any) and thread tape around the Defi sensor. I was a bit worried as the sensor tip did not stick out a great deal from the end of the adapter and not getting a true reading but the adaptor looks to thead in just as far as the factory sender and after taking my car for a run it seemed to work near spot on.

The temps warmed up relatively similar and after a good freeway run with 30degree ambient temps in Adelaide the oil temp was within 5 deg C to the coolant temp which is what I expected to see.

Yeah I have a gtt and see link to photo of the sensors location on the oil filter housing with the adaptor in place, the hot engine bay made it hard to get in closer lol

http://www.use.com/supersize.pl?set=3703df3839032c6a08eb

Edit: Sorry, you said it was M12 thread, I thought it might have been the stock oil pressure sensor but with that thread I dont think it can be, pretty sure Nissan used the same 1/8 sensor for all Skylines

Edited by 89CAL

Yeah the oil pressure is 1/8th NPT but the temp is M12 x1.25, Blitz make a similar product but as I said rather buy Australian if possible

http://www.fqperformance.com/shop/product_info.php?manufacturers_id=20&products_id=876&osCsid=ezhimmjjeyco

  • 2 weeks later...

There is an easy way for rb 20

Dunno if rb25 is the same

post-89755-0-51240000-1392205460_thumb.jpg

I decided that the sensor is going to get pretty good accuracy, but take an extra 2 or 3 seconds for the temp to get there.

Fluids are good at transferring heat. Even though its not in the stream of oil, it works very well.

Edited by D.I.Y. Mik

I remote mounted my 2 oil pressure sensors. Just used a -4 braided line (I think it was -4 or -3) and put a fitting in the block and a T piece and the 2 sensors up the top. Pretty much the same as above, but remote mounting it for easier access. Probably not as good for oil temp, but works for oil pressure

20131122_172442_zps3616830d.jpg

Yeah havent had any problems with strange oil pressure readings. They are pretty much spot on where I would expect them to be.

Originally was going to just tee it off the block but this seemed smarter in case anything ever went wrong its so easy to fix :)

I've painted everything since then so its all black now bar the braided line, can just see it in this photo, it blends in pretty well now

20140119_103121_zpst7g7tgdy.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Not sure the US can import anything other than the C34 Stagea's, but if you can and you need to to tow, DO NOT under any circumstances get an M35 Stagea. If it is just as a family car and your country/state allows it, absolutely and definitely get an M35 (3.5L if possible as it is effectively a 350Z) over a C34.
    • Punch your VIN (nm35-xxxxxx) into Amayama.com You can see everything there quite easily.
    • Thanks for that, I'll check it all out. I can always do the brakes last anyway if its a problem.  The 16's are super cool, if they do fit I'll cruise around with them for a bit.  
    • Well, that's kinda the point. The calipers might interfere with the inside of the barrels 16" rims are only about 14" inside the barrels, which is ~350mm, and 334mm rotors only leave about 8mm outboard for the caliper before you get to 350, And.... that;s not gunna be enough. If the rims have a larger ID than that, you might sneak it in. I'd be putting a measuring stick inside the wheel and eyeballing the extra required for the caliper outboard of the rotor before committing to bolting it all on.
    • OK, so again it has been a bit of a break but it was around researching what had been done since I didn't have access to Neil's records and not everything is obvious without pulling stuff apart. Happily the guy who assembled the engine had kept reasonable records, so we now know the final spec is: Bottom end: Standard block and crank Ross 86.5mm forgies, 9:1 compression Spool forged rods Standard main bolts Oil pump Spool billet gears in standard housing Aeroflow extended and baffled sump Head Freshly rebuilt standard head with new 80lb valve springs Mild porting/port match Head oil feed restrictor VCT disabled Tighe 805C reground cams (255 duration, 8.93 lift)  Adjustable cam gears on inlet/exhaust Standard head bolts, gasket not confirmed but assumed MLS External 555cc Nismo injectors Z32 AFM Bosch 023 Intank fuel pump Garret 2871 (factory housings and manifold) Hypertune FFP plenum with standard throttle   Time to book in a trip to Unigroup
×
×
  • Create New...