Jump to content
SAU Community

[Nsw/south West Sydney] R32 Gts-T Sedan / Gtr Front

aurnob88

By aurnob88,
in For Sale (Private Whole cars only)

 Share

Recommended Posts

aurnob88 Explorer

aurnob88

Posted
Posted
R32 4 door 1989 GTST


Dyno Tuned At Chequered Tuning in Melbourne, 240KW ATW (4500 RPM Boost Threshold)


Gtr front bumper and grill, lip

Has quite a few mods, contact for list,


RB20DET (Possibly Rebuilt/Forged)

Poncams

GT3071r (0.84 rear housing, braided oil lines)

600cc injectors

Splitfire coilpacks

Z32 afm

Nistune

oil temp pressure, water temp, boost gauges,

Driftworx Front Coilovers, Rear KYB Shocks/Lowered Springs (Works very well, comfy)

extra lock knuckle setup,

adjustable castor, camber, toe arms

All around hicas lock bar,

R33 GTS-T Front and Rear Brakes, slotted rotors, relatively new pads, drift button handbrake

Shimmed LSD

Kakimoto Regu 96r exhaust, high flow Cat, Modified turbo manifold and Dump pipes (3+ inch all through)

FMIC (Sprayed Black)

Stock Airbox

Redone Shifter Bushing

Nardi deep dish wheel

S14 Front Wheels / Z32 Rear (80%+ tread)

JVC Double Din Head Unit, 6x9's Rear.


Car was brought into Sydney from Melbourne about 6 months ago, car fully complied with blueslip requirements and is fully legal, other than ride height being a little low.


Does not attract any unwanted attention.


Body has a few dings, marks, scratches here and there. Front bonnet has rain marring, front bumper installation is a bit patchy. It's a 1989 skyline imported, you know what to expect. Car has other rough bits here and there from over the years, i.e. rear doors hard to open, power windows a little slow, small panel cracks and imperfections.


Car runs well, reliably, pulls well. Leaks a little oil but probably an easy fix (thinking its the oil temp gauge connnections), working to much as of late.


0468890416 Campbelltown


$_20.JPG

$_20.JPG

  • 3 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Welp, good to know. Will have to wait awhile until steady hands with drills and taps are available. In other news, these just arrived! I will weigh them for posterity.
    • Duncan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Duncan · Posted

      100% the factory sender is tapered, that is how it seals (well, that and teflon paste or tape)
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Thanks folks - I've saved a few links and I'll have to think of potential cable/adapters/buying fittings. First step will be seeing if I can turn the curren abortion of a port into something usable, then get all BSPT'y on it. I did attempt to look at the OEM sender male end to see if it IS tapered because as mentioned you should be able to tell by looking at it... well, I don't know if I can. If I had to guess it looks like *maybe* 0.25 of a mm skinnier at the bottom of the thread compared to where the thread starts. So if it is tapered it's pretty slight - Or all the examples of BSPT vs BSPP are exaggerated for effect in their taper size.
    • Duncan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Duncan · Posted

      Have a look at that (shitty) pic I posted. You can see AN -4 braided line coming to a -4 to 1/8 BSPT adapter, into a 1/8 BSPT T piece. The Haltech pressure sender is screwed into the long arm of the sender and factory sender (pre your pic) into the T side. You can also see the cable tie holding the whole contraption in place. Is it better than mounting the sender direct to your engine fitting......yes because it removes that vibration as the engine revs out 50 times every lap and that factory sender is pretty big. Is it necessary for you......well I've got no idea, I just don't like something important failing twice so over-engineer it to the moon!
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
×
×
  • Create New...