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Hey guys, well the time has come, like for many of you, for me to upgrade the perfomance of my car. I have decieded to keep my car rather then selling it for an R, and hence need a little more ooomph out of my 33 gtst.

Basically I am lookin at aproximately 250-260rwkw's ++ Anything above that would be a bonus. Will be keeping stock internals.

In regards to which turbo to use, i am not sure yet, most probably a highflowed unit as i want the setup lookin a stock as possible. Meaning I will be using stock manifold. As the stock manifold is quite restrictive, would there be any benefit in gettin the dremel out and cleaning up the rough parts of the casting to increase flow? I was thinking of doing this while the car would be off the road.

Fuel pump will be a Bosch 044 unit mounted intank, however I was told that a 040 would be sufficient if not the same when mounted intank, is the correct? As im only aiming for 250-260rwkws, can i keep the stock injectors, and add an aftermarket fuel pressure regulator. Would you recommend a Malpassi Rising Rate or a Nismo FPR? Also I will remove the injectors before install and get them cleaned and flow tested.

Ecu will be a powerfc and will be using a z32 afm. I am undecided on a boost controller at the moment. Either continue to use my GFB bleeder of get a Hybrid Stage 3 EBC. I will also need a new wastegate actuator. I plan on running 15psi + so would a R32 wastegate actuator be able to hold that, or would i need a HKS item?

My clutch is currently a heavy duty item, i have no idea if it will last, but will keep it and see what happens with the new power level it will be making. Also at time of install, i will be getting a new split dump pipe, and will make a custom intake pipe for my HKS pod and z32 AFM.

I have also thrown in the air the possibilty of getting some head porting done? Would it be worthwhile considering what I am planning. I will also be building a waterspray kit for my FMIC activated my WOT switch (wait for my DIY guide :) ). Also forgot to mention I have an adjusable Cam gear on exhaust side. How much would some Tomei Poncams cost?

I think thats about everything. Thanks for taking the time to read this. I look forward to your replies :)

Dean

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i think by 260rwkw that you will run out of the injectors duty cycle.ive heard that they cant cope with 390hp @ the flywheel.And there are other things that they have to compensate for to keep the motor from stalling.Youll need more head room........id say new injectors for sure.....people who have gone this path and not done anything about it have payed the price....

260rwkw=353rwhp:burnout:

if you want the engine to last using the stock injectors at 260rwkw is not the way to go about, full stop.

you may be able to get 250rwkw with cams and stock injectors and reg but if you just do it with the aid of a big turbo and stock injec+reg it been proven over and over again to fail the standard internal rb25.

On the lighter side their are many peolple running alot more than 260rwkw on stock internal 25's useing after market injectors and getting great resalts.

If your keeping stock internals injectors are a MUST, dont be the next victom of a reg boosted 25.

With the waterspray for the FMIC, I have a hob switch (i think that is what it is called), which is basically a switch which is activated by pressure. So I have it mounted on a pressure source and when it gets above 12psi the waterspray is activated. I think the switch is adjustable as well.

Adam

i would go a bosch 910 pump i know people with 300rwkw with them, they are a great pump.
For the extra $50 i'd go the 040 which has a much higher capacity. No point having a pump that can 'just' flow the amount required, you want a bit extra just for safe keeping :)

Dean,

Dont bother with a 044, get a jap one - or, if you really want a 044, buy mine, fitted and running, then I can buy a tomei one:)

HKS 2535 has made around 250rwkw at 1.2 bar on RB25, so that would be my suggestion, or similar.

Manifold, I would be careful removing too much metal from inside the runners. I know a guy who fitted a manifold with 2mm wider runners on an SR20 and got a noticeable increase in lag and drop in response. I would suggest just matchporting the manifold and plenum would be a better idea.

Injectors - how much do you pay for insurance every year? does it provide warranty against smashing ringlands? If you do smash ringlands, you will be up for a rebuild PLUS new injectors. How many people do you know who managed to run 250+ rwkw for any period with stock injectors on RB25? Can you afford the 5K+ it will cost you to rebuild the engine with forged internals? For the cost, injectors are pretty cheap insurance for your internals.

My 0.02 anyways.

I agree with Steve :) , upgrading the injectors is essential for your power target. I have done a lot of step by step upgrade work on a few RB25s' and I haven't been able to get safe A/F ratios with standard injectors over 225 rwkw. I have had to fix too many engines when people rolled the dice :boohoo:

Steve, Steve, Steve - I'm going to rename you "Mr Japanese brand name man" Tomei this - HKS that :D

Dean, here's my 2c worth, speaking from experience:

Fuel pump - A Bosch 910 pump is 100% perfectly capable of handling 250-260rwkw. I had a 910 for over 3yrs - for the last 2 it was with mid 200rwkw. However at 300rwkw it could no longer cope. Going for an 044 is probably a better idea though, as you'll only end up wanting more power down the track and getting the 044 now will prevent you having to upgrade again (like I just did).

Injectors - As everyone else has already said, don't muck about with reg's - do it the right way and upgrade injectors! Don't learn the hard way. If you can't afford to do injectors, then wait until you can.

Exhaust manifold - Yes I would recommend a good clean-up and port match of the exhaust manifold - mine was and it certainly didn't hurt power or response!

Head port and polish - ditto above.

Boost control - I would recommend a decent EBC. I've had a few bleeder set-ups and the EBC wins hands down every time. They can be had cheap enough these days. $600-700 will get you a good one - Performance Forums have the odd decent 2nd deal from time to time.

Clutch - if it slips worry about it then. My 'Extreme' cushioned ceramic button single plate is still holding up. I also run a 1095kg pressure plate.

Wastegate actuator - The R32 actuator will probably only give a slight improvement as the spring wouldn't be much stronger than a R33 one. I run a Apexi 1.0bar actuator and it works bloody well! 1.0bar no probs. Stand-by on this one as a mate has recently researched upgraded actuators and found a brand new off-the-shelf Garrett item that did the the job perfectly.

Guest INASNT
I've seen 330rwkw with standard injectors and Adj Fuel pressure reg. Apparenlty the injectors have issues closing at such big pressure tho but for 260ish just a reg should be fine.

Ram in more pressure than the stock injecotrs can handle and the spray pattern of the injector gets all ***ed up and all the injectors spray pattern wont be the same.

You didnt see this happen in perth did ya??? coz perth seem to always get the most stupid figures out of stock parts which dont seem possible :D

The reason I recommended the Tomei fuel pump is that there is a fair bit of fiddling to get a bosch fitted - by the time you recon in the extra parts cost, and the extra rooting around - its quicker and costs similar to buy a direct fit pump, made for the job.

Only sharing experience - like I said, if Dean wants a 044, I have one all set up :)

If it makes you feel better Matt, Dean, buy a garrett turbo, just pick some specs and hope for the best.:D I dont like to recommend a turbo that I havent seen/heard first hand what they are like. So that sort of limits me to the ones that I have.

It's cool dude, I'm just winding you up :D

I should have got the exact specs on my turbo when it was built. It would be a good bloody good bolt-on upgrade for those chasing the 260-300rwkw mark - without suffering too much extra lag.

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