Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have inserted the acronym GAFU into my Mech Eng List Of Terms dictionary :(

Back on topic - Dean, I'll find out tonight/tomorrow about the Garrett wastegate actuator (cost, part no: etc).

Ram in more pressure than the stock injecotrs can handle and the spray pattern of the injector gets all ***ed up and all the injectors spray pattern wont be the same.

You didnt see this happen in perth did ya??? coz perth seem to always get the most stupid figures out of stock parts which dont seem possible :D

makes more sense having the engine failing due to ***ed up spray patterns rather then staying open(running rich)

If you are going to port and polish the intake, why don't you go the whole hog and get it Extrude polished or whatever they call it.

Get your throttle body, inntake manifold, runners and head and take it to them. They then pump the stuff full of this "Gunk" which is abrasive and smooths the path in the direction which the air will flow.

I think its about $330 to do it....

BASS OUT

Hi guys, ok thanks for the responses.

I think they have high levels of Nitrous in the air down in perth, lucky bastards :D

SK: U mentioned a place to get Rb25 injectors, can u tell me pls?

Matt: Thanks for the info on the w.a. I agree the rb20 wont suffice.

Steve: Hmm is 040 a better fit, otherwise i might get some prices of jap brand pumps.

At current, I am speaking to Bill from ATS in regards to hiflowing the stock turbo, and see what options i have. Will be lookin at min of 250rwks.

Will there be any difference between a decent EBC and the PFC EBC in performance. I assume that the PFC will work better with the EBC it was designed with?

Thanks for all ur responses guys :D

I just finished an exam, so in a happy mood :rofl:

Cya

Will there be any difference between a decent EBC and the PFC EBC in performance. I assume that the PFC will work better with the EBC it was designed with?

For more comprehensive ecu data-logging.

if you want the engine to last using the stock injectors at 260rwkw is not the way to go about, full stop.

:werd:

-rb25

Steve, thanks ill keep that in mind, cmon currency rate, go aussie dollar :D

Leo: Read this thread by BOOSTD, http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ht=%24350+turbo

I am basically goin to do the same thing but with a different V-trim, and different machining, which is still to be decieded. Ill let u know once i myself know. Shoudnt cost more then 600 for the turbo work, and that is probably worst case senario.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...