Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

This maybe a stupid question, but I've got the opportunity to buy some Deatsch Werks injectors and the 850cc and 1000cc are both the same price so I was wondering if there is any reason not to just grab the bigger ones?

Cheers for any help,

- Lance

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/440775-850cc-vs-1000cc-deatsch-werks/
Share on other sites

They are the older type and unlike the new ID range which work well at low duty cycles the older type can idle. poorly etc .

How much power do you plan to make? I have 550 Deatschwerks in my car currently at 314AWKW. (418hp)

Rough rule of thumb is 850cc = 850hp gross and 1000cc = 1000hp gross (on petrol)

I'm looking at the ones from Black Label Performance, Bob, are they the old ones? Currently making 270rwkw with 550cc injectors. Was planning on around 300 - 350rwkw. I emailed Sochi from Sthitec about it and he recommended 650cc~700cc for that power figure so I guess he was just covering ass if 550cc's will do the job...

Cheers,

- Lance

Edited by Captain Wow

Deatschwerks are generally reconditioned and matched Jecs etc. The 600cc should get you to your goal ok.

The IDs are just matched Bosch injectors so may be worth getting a price from Scott for some 1000s or 1200s. Not sure if they are a bolt into the Neo or if you will need a new rail for them.

I can easily beat those prices Lance. ;)

Is yours a Neo engine? If so the Xspurt 55mm injectors will work great, I also make my own plug adapters so they just drop in. I will PM you some prices if you like.

I would go with the 1000's personally, seeing you are upgrading from 550's.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
    • EMU Classic. For what I need it to do I see no reason to upgrade. Link and Haltech would both cost an extra chunk of money for a lot of unutilized features
×
×
  • Create New...