Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 43
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

True i dont think Nissan would sell a car in this country under the Infinity badge seeing as Infinitys arent sold here. simple logic haha. Im still thinking oz will get a GTR but it will be similar to a US spec model, so we can still import JDM versions :)

Justin, not to mention the inifinity badge name died in Australia ages ago...

so did the skyline badge :)

wouldn't surprise me in the least if they chose to use that badging - perhaps to steer away from the 'boy ricer' appeal that the skyline badge currently has (to some). On the other hand, given the select (small!) market, maybe they would try to tap into the racing heritage side of things.

who knows!?

given some of the marketing decisions in the automotive industry, it could go either way (or not at all)

My guess it will be sold here as an Iffinity and prolly around 120-140k mark.

otherwise they'll be hard press to sell any at all if it goes higher.

considering u can get the new audi s6 which will come in a atmo V10, same V10 minus turbos out of the lambo gallardo turning out 275-285 kw quattro system for around $160k so the ppls who buy these car are well aware of where the money lay.

When a motorcar hits the $150k mark, they play in a very different pool of marketting where nissan have no experience whatsoever

just my 5 cent

I think it's going to be a hard sell for Nissan.

The v35 doesn't look like a supercar like say the NSX did, and who knows if a new body GTR will.

...and it's such a small market at that price...

...and look at how difficult it has been even for Honda to move NSXs off the lot, even Type-R's. What, they sold like 2 in the UK last year or something according to Top Gear? That's peanuts. It's like they said 'Who would pay that much money for a nissan/honda?', and not many people by the looks of it. I'd get a used Ferrari instead and just wait for a Supra driver to pull up and ask me the retail on it:P

It's all academic anyway, how many people here have a spare 150k to throw about on a GTR anyway.

due to Ghosn's globalised trade views I'm guessing they're not gonna use individual contires and thir buying powers to determine availability, but instead make it available all over the world (well the main countires anyways) and stock the cars in coutries where they know there'll be a steady flow of customers. The rest of the countries will probably get an on order from japan or the nearest stockist basis.

I think it will sell quite well if it comes. I base this on the number of M3's. Relative to price and performance, there are A LOT of them around. And don't forget 996 911's and Boxsters. These are $90K+ (boxsters), $150K (M3) and $180K - $330K+ (911) cars. The hard part is always going to be convincing people to spend that much on a Nissan. But then again, Australia only got 22(?) M3 CSL's and at $210K a pop, they were sold as soon as people could place an order.

I'd imagine the new GT-R will be sold here primarily as an R34 M-Spec equivalent car, to compete with the other Euro models. And a new M-Spec type GTR at $150k up against a BMW M3, ppl will soon realise where to splash their cash. But then again, can you put a price on a BMW badge? That's going to be only stumbling block i can see, i'm sure the car will be an absolute rip snorter, just gotta convince ppl it can be Nissan :D

I don't know about u guys but I see a lot of 350's about the place, they're everywhere, cos you know any dude with 60k to splash on a new car will either choose the 350 or the rx-8, cos like what else is there???

But then again, can you put a price on a BMW badge?

Exactly, badges are worth a lot, and it's not like an m3 csl is a dog of a car either, so tricky, tricky.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...