Jump to content
SAU Community

Heeeelp!!!

SKYNUTS

By SKYNUTS,
in Victoria

 Share

Recommended Posts

SKYNUTS Collaborator

SKYNUTS

Posted
Posted

Just got pulled over by an unmarked copper, gave me an epa for my blow off , boost gfb adjust valve and my intercooler.. He didnt say anything bout my exhaust and fuel pump cos my engine was off at that time but they are FREAKING loud... Wat should i do man. I also have a through cat..... Crap!!!

Anyone at all pls advice... thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/44091-heeeelp/
Share on other sites
(B1) MR_fanny Grand Master

(B1) MR_fanny

Posted
Posted

what advice do u want?? those bits are illegal and u got done for them...its tuff but thats the way it goes. pay the fine and convert it back to stock pass the test and bolt(hide) the bits back on after and take another chance on the roads...those are ur choices i guess.

did u also have a pod cause i think ur only allowed one intake mod so u can either have an i/c or a pod but not both. im assuming u did with those mods:D:D

it is obvious by now that if u have an import with mods and u live in vic, u will get done:D didnt u get the panphlet in the letterbox?? j/k:D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/44091-heeeelp/#findComment-901137
Share on other sites
pawson Explorer

pawson

Posted
Posted

haha, I'm one of the victim also. Got the EPA letter 2 days ago and ask me to do the test on mid July in Macleod. Busy to find the stock ECU at the moment.

As above guys said, find all the stock stuff, put it back and pass the test. Sell your BOV, cos except for the sound, the stock one can do the same thing as the aftermarket does. (The stock BOV can hold up to 1.2~1.5 bar I think? correct me if I was wrong).

I read some thread said they pass the Epa test with their fake cat. Don't know U can make it or not. But if the EPA find out that. they will charge U more.

One more thing, if U drive a non-stock skyline in Vic. Prepare some more money each yr. Not for car insurence. Is for the canary. :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/44091-heeeelp/#findComment-902948
Share on other sites
Guest INASNT

Guest INASNT

Posted
Posted
haha, I'm one of the victim also. Got the EPA letter 2 days ago and ask me to do the test on mid July in Macleod. Busy to find the stock ECU at the moment.

As above guys said, find all the stock stuff, put it back and pass the test. Sell your BOV,  cos except for the sound, the stock one can do the same thing as the aftermarket does. (The stock BOV can hold up to 1.2~1.5 bar I think? correct me if I was wrong).

I read some thread said they pass the Epa test with their fake cat. Don't know U can make it or not. But if the EPA find out that. they will charge U more.

One more thing, if U drive a non-stock skyline in Vic. Prepare some more money each yr. Not for car insurence. Is for the canary. :D

I wouldnt risk a fake cat with a full epa test coz a proper cat gets to an operating temperature and holds that temp. The epa use a probe on the cat to test temperature, if the cats guttered they will know from the different temperature reading they will get.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/44091-heeeelp/#findComment-903206
Share on other sites
SKY031 Grand Master

SKY031

Posted
Posted

SKYNUTS don't even bother trying to pass an EPA test with no cat... the fine is something like $2000? (I'm sure someone will know the exact amount)

Got the EPA letter 2 days ago and ask me to do the test on mid July in Macleod.  

Read the fine print.... if you live more than 40k's away from the testing centre, you can get an exemption. :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/44091-heeeelp/#findComment-903236
Share on other sites
pawson Explorer

pawson

Posted
Posted

Read the fine print,

55A. Authority may require vehicle or ship to be made available for testing

(1) The Authority may by notice in writing served upon any person being the registered owner of or apparently in lawful possession of any vehicle or ship require him to make the vehicle or ship available as required by the notice for the making of any inspection measurement or test by an authorized officer in order to determine whether the vehicle or ship complies with any provision of this Act.

(2) Any such notice shall state the time (being in the case of a new vehicle not less than seven days and in the case of any other vehicle or a ship not less than fourteen days after the time at which the notice is served) and the place (being, in the case of a vehicle other than a vehicle intended for sale as a new vehicle not more than 50 kilometres from the address at which the vehicle is registered in the case of a ship ordinarily kept afloat at some place, that place, and in the case of any other ship, not more than 50 kilometres from the place at which the ship is ordinarily kept travelling by a convenient route and using suitable means) at which the vehicle or ship is to be made available and the period (being, in the case of a vehicle intended for sale as a new vehicle, forty-eight hours, and in the case of any other vehicle one hour, and in the case of a ship, three hours) for which it is to be required.

no luck for me the act is 55A(1) not 55A(2). :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/44091-heeeelp/#findComment-904511
Share on other sites
Nismo32R Experienced

Nismo32R

Posted
Posted
haha, I'm one of the victim also. Got the EPA letter 2 days ago and ask me to do the test on mid July in Macleod. Busy to find the stock ECU at the moment.

As above guys said, find all the stock stuff, put it back and pass the test. Sell your BOV,  cos except for the sound, the stock one can do the same thing as the aftermarket does. (The stock BOV can hold up to 1.2~1.5 bar I think? correct me if I was wrong).

I read some thread said they pass the Epa test with their fake cat. Don't know U can make it or not. But if the EPA find out that. they will charge U more.

One more thing, if U drive a non-stock skyline in Vic. Prepare some more money each yr. Not for car insurence. Is for the canary. :D

I'm just wondering....what if i drive my QLD registered Skyline in VIC...does the rule still affect me????

i never heard of EPA thing in QLD...so i ask...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/44091-heeeelp/#findComment-904544
Share on other sites
SKY031 Grand Master

SKY031

Posted
Posted
no luck for me the act is 55A(1) not 55A(2). :D

um.. it's all the same act. :D

part one tells you that they can serve you, and part 2 tells you your obligations.

yes no?

Nismo32R they could serve you with a notice, but if the car is registered in QLD, you wouldn't have to have it tested (according to what pawson just posted)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/44091-heeeelp/#findComment-904602
Share on other sites
JET_VL_747 Apprentice

JET_VL_747

Posted
Posted
Just got pulled over by an unmarked copper, gave me an epa for my blow off , boost gfb adjust valve and my intercooler.. He didnt say anything bout my exhaust and fuel pump cos my engine was off at that time but they are FREAKING loud... Wat should i do man. I also have a through cat..... Crap!!!

Anyone at all pls advice... thanks

u could sell da skyline and buy a vl turbo... but u still might get pulled ova dats da only problem... but it would still be quicker den da skyline

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/44091-heeeelp/#findComment-905483
Share on other sites
JAPCAB Proficient

JAPCAB

Posted
Posted

SKYNUTZ, i just went down to EPA. For noise levels, pop on a stock cat and stock cat back exhaust - this will clock in 85dB so you will pass by 5dB.

For emissions, i failed because my O2 sensor is stuffed, so the car is running rich. Indications that your o2 is stuffed is crap mileage out of a full tank - i was getting 200km outta full tank, even driving like a grandma chewed. Also if your blowing a bit of black smoke - excess unburned fuel because ur car is running too rich. Make sure you are running an intact CAT aswell!

Intercooler or Air pod - one or the other, not both.

BOV - i went down running no bov, they said i must have the stock one connected even though i'm not running any bov and no gas is being vented externally....stupid. Run a stocker to save trouble.

Boost controllers - take out the solenoid from under the bonnet, they will check panels etc looking for boost controller. I had my sard trigger disconnected tucked away near the fuse panel on drivers side, i have to take it out now before going back again.

ECU's - they unplug your AFM, if you are running a standalone ecu then the car wont turn off.

Basically if you dont want to have to go back to EPA for a second visit make sure you address all these points.

Hope this helps.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/44091-heeeelp/#findComment-905503
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Jarsky
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By Jarsky · Posted

      Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Duncan
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By Duncan · Posted

      Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • V35Newbie
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By V35Newbie · Posted

      I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • Duncan
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By Duncan · Posted

      You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
×
×
  • Create New...