Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Never though I'd do this, but since the Birth of my my son, rarely get a chance to enjoy this car any more, so I've decided to move it on.

Always garaged and car covered - Has 160k on the clock, still running orginal engine.

Extreamly clean, no rust, straight body, no accidents, orginal panels.

only 2,000 ks done since all work was completed.

Standard engine internally.

308 kws at 16psi

Garrett BB 2860-5 turbos with split dump pipes

HKS hard pipes

apexi power intakes

Genuine Nismo intercooler

Genuine Koyo radiator

Carbon fibre air diversion plate

800CC injectors, big intank fuel pump, fuel rail and adjustable reg

microtech mtx-8 computer with MAP sensor (no more AFMs)

HKS EVC-R boost controller

oddessy battery in boot

Custom catch can with braided lines and fittings

HKS coilovers

Power spirit rear camber arms

Nismo strut brace

Veilside andrews 18x9 +20 with new federal 595s

ADR approved braided brake lines

New DBA slotted rotors all round with RG low dust brake pads

Carbon fibre JUN style front splitter

Carbon fibre weather shields

Carbon fibre ganador mirrors (genuine)

Carbon fibre N1 rear lip underspoiler

Genuine Nardi suede deep corn steering wheel (might come with momo wheel instead if I can't bear to part with it)

Titanium shift knob

Nismo gauge cluster

Clarion flip screen DVD player with bluetooth etc

JDM32 number plates

All servicing up to date - timing belt, water pump, new clutch booster, new ABS module etc etc

Have massive file full of receipts etc for everything done over it's life in Australia, including orginal import paperwork. Also have pictures and video of the work being completed, including dyno runs.

Also comes with stock everything- wheels, steering wheel, front splitter, intercooler and piping, radiator, mirrors, turbos, air box, computer etc - everything to return it back to factory spec.

If your keen drop me a line 0412 720 901

$27,500 ono as is. Available to view in Taylors Hill.

Also have a matching black GTI-R that can be negotiated into a package deal for someone wanting the family of Godzillas :D

Cheers

Daniel

post-40997-0-33741800-1395803162_thumb.jpg

post-40997-0-63312200-1395803102_thumb.jpg

post-40997-0-96595000-1395803341_thumb.jpg

post-40997-0-07083800-1395803422_thumb.jpg

post-40997-0-35575500-1395803255_thumb.jpg

Edited by HoBi

very nice and priced well

If I didn't have one I would be on a plane to check it out in person

GLWS - (oh and black is sexy)

Edited by Sinista32
  • 3 weeks later...
  • 8 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You very likely need to get it on a dyno and tune it. My assumption is, you've got an RB25DET tune in it, which has a different manifold, different injectors, and different cams as a minimum. What O2 sensor are you running?   When you say it runs extremely rich from idle all the way to redline, is this just free revving it you see that?
    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
    • Thanks for the replies everyone. Definitely a coolant push. Oil catch can is empty and always has been. As the engine is out now I'll be having a good look over things. I do have some detonation on the piston tops from a trigger issue back about 5 years ago. I felt it and shut off then bought a new ecu and changed the trigger. Never been an issue since. It never hurt the power, its made almost 80hp more since that incident but I will pull the bearing caps to take a look. If the bearings are damaged I will do a bottom end refresh. Head is being re conditioned at the moment and the block will be cleaned and checked to ensure it's flat. I'll go with a kameari gasket and see how it ends up. The other thing I'm not super keen on is the cylinder colours. I suspect this is from the inlet manifold. The plan will be to put it back together, retune and then stick a plazmaman billet inlet on it and retune. I'm happy with the power, if it makes a little more, then great, but I would rather just make everything more efficient at this stage.
    • Maybe they'll look to do a bunch of presales to help inject some cash fast for their financial issues...
×
×
  • Create New...