Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all, since converting my s1 to a manual I've loved it, but for some reason- now this is very intermittently happening -it revs up to about 1500, sometimes up to 2000rpm when coming to a stop or very slow turn.

This is very frustrating when trying to slow down for a turn or roundabout, and stay in 3rd gear -but it's pushing like a dozer!

or you slowly pull up at the lights and it's pulling 2000rpm (and it's reasonably loud) and people are looking like what's this dude doing?

I've not been able to replicate the conditions or driving techniques to make it do this, it's very random.

Some days it will do it at every stop or slow turn/intersection.

Other days it won't do it at all the whole drive?

Sometimes it goes between this revving state and idle repeatedly while stopping (revving up and down every 1-2 secs)

I can only assume it has something to do with the auto tune?

Maybe it's revving slightly to maintain converter speed/pressure? (because it doesn't know any better).

The only auto mod I did was bridge the neutral switch in the engine bay so it can start.

Is there something I can do to the input signals to the ecu? Vehicle Speed sensor or something to fool it?

Any help on this would be great? As its starting to p!ss me off!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/441081-c34-s1-manual-revs-when-stopping/
Share on other sites

  • 4 months later...

Sorry that I can't offer anything useful, other than to say what you probably already know: my auto does that, and I assume it's normal for the auto ECU. If you rev it in neutral even, after the revs fall, they will "blip" back up to about 1,500-2,000 rpm for an instant. I think it's part of the auto ECU setup. Seems to me that this is more than just tune - that there are extra "smarts" in the auto ECUs which are responsible for this.

  • 3 weeks later...

Ok, next question, does anyone know where to source an r33 style ecu plug?

I have a stock manual tune gtst r33 ecu here. Ill just re-pin the plug to use it.

Or-

Is the s1 c34 ecu nistune-able?

Or can I use a r34 neo power fc?

Im so over this issue I'm just going to buy an ecu with a manual tune!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all,  I am in the market for an R200 longnose diff out of a Z31 300ZX, or S12 RSX, DR30 skyline, or similar, in a 3.9 ratio.  Preferably a late model one with the M12 crownwheel bolts.  The only easy to find advert for one of these was my ad back in 2007 when I sold it on this forum.  I sold the diff as I had sold the car it goes to, but as it turns out, after 18 years I got the car back late last year, so now I'm looking for the diff !  If anyone knows where to find a longnose R200 LSD with the M12 crownwheel bolts, drop me a line at [email protected] - Bonus paid if soomeone comes up with the original diff (stranger things have happened !).  Cheers   Ben D    
    • Hi everyone, I used to post here a bit from 2004-2013, when I owned various Nissans, in particular my S12 RSX gazelle, which was sold in 2007.  As luck would have it, after an 18 year hiatus, the car found its way back to me last year, and over the past 11 months I have had the pleasure of restoring it with my kids.  One thing that I am after in particular is a 3.9 ratio R200 LSD for it.  I actually sold the one out of the car here back in 2007 , and it would be incredible if I could track down who I sold it to, so I can see how they have progressed over the years (and to be honest, to see whether I can get the diff back !).  Anyways, hi all and let me know "where are the R200 Longnose diffs all at these days ?  Cheers Ben D  
    • Arms will be the same as the G35 or 350Z, but as above, there was a change in the lower control arm where it connects to the ball joint.  That said, you can remove the ball joint cone from your old ball joints and fit them to the new ball joints.  To be honest, I didn't think the ball joints themselves were different. The main ball joint is a bit awkward to replace, you really need to remove the steering knuckle to press out the old one.  Some people have used tools to remove it in place, but it just seemed too hard to get to. If you are going to press out/in that ball joint, then you may as well just replace the bushings in the LCA and the compression rod.  You can buy the compression rod bushing from Nissan, but the LCA bushes, you will need to go aftermarket. Much cheaper than buying the whole arm.
    • Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
×
×
  • Create New...