Timing Issue

[89CAL]

Not entirely true, I have seen cars with the CAS out by 1 tooth or so and they still start (obviously don't run well but still idled fine)

Also I have seen (My car) range between 0 and 15 degrees timing at idle. Caused when the base idle is set way too high and the ecu pulls timing to bring it down.

The ECU would be pulling timing because of knock rather then timing. The car doesnt actually know what the timing is doing, it is outputting timing based on the CAS. The CAS can be on upside down, the car still puts in 15 degrees timing relative to the CAS.

[sean133]

So unplug AAC too?

I'll re do the belt just incase it skipped a tooth again and rotate it like 5 times with the timing covers off to check

Will rig up a proper tester. And I'll replace plugs too

[89CAL]

should just need to unplug the TPS

have a look at the timing for a bit before adjusting anything. If it is pretty constant then I'd say it will be fine to adjust. If it jumps around I'd take another look at things

[sean133]

yeah it's been pretty constant hasn't jumped around really

[HR32GTS 4DOOR]

The ECU would be pulling timing because of knock rather then timing. The car doesnt actually know what the timing is doing, it is outputting timing based on the CAS. The CAS can be on upside down, the car still puts in 15 degrees timing relative to the CAS.

Knock on idle? I don't think so. I'm saying if the base idle, when the AAC is unplugged and timing stable at what the ecu thinks is 15 deg, is set at let's say 1500 rpm (vacuum leak or something) and the idle screw on the ecu is set at say 900rpm, once the AAC is plugged back in the ecu will pull timing until it reaches that 900 rpm. This is what makes most cars hunt.

[89CAL]

Sorry, I thought u were talking about setting the base timing wrong (to advanced) then driving and having to much timing in the car.

Kinda makes sense now that I have re-read it

[sean133]

Idle screw on the ecu?

So basically what do I do to set my idle right ??

[sean133]

89cal isn't that what my problem sounds like?

Way Too advanced on idle then driving it retards the timing because of the knock?

[89CAL]

Yeah could be. Theres no screw on the ECU in 33s. AFAIK you have to take off one of the plugs on the aac valve and the turn the screw on the AAC valve till its right. Theres something on it in the DIY section I think

Dont worry too much about the idle at the moment

[sean133]

This is shitting me off

[sean133]

When I get home (round 5pm) I'll chuck new plugs in, adjust the idle re do the belt and have another go and see what it reads

[89CAL]

Why are you re-doing the belt? I thought you had checked it multiple times already?

Dont worry about the idle, dont worry about the plugs. Just chuck a lead between cyl #1 spark plug and coilpack #1, put the timing light on there, unplug the TPS, Start the car and see what you get

There may be no need to adjust the idle. I dont recall having to drop mine and you may find that the timing is able to be adjusted. Then you can change plugs etc afterwards.

So just check the timing first

[sean133]

Oh just because I'm halfway through it that's all.

And yeah will do that cheers man

Dunno why I even have to change anything if it was fine before

[sean133]

Key way for the crank pulley might be off

That'd also cause a false reading

[sean133]

I can compare it to my spare crank though

[Ben C34]

Calm down....

[sean133]

.....?

[Ben C34]

You are over complicating the issue. It was fine before so it can't be screwed. Set timing as discussed.

[sean133]

Just brainstorming man

Loose bolt can warp the key way

But yes il take your advice and do what you say

[sean133]

tps disconnected

1000rpm

15 degrees with cas fully retarded

Still sounds like a wrx

But I didn't manage to get my hands on a spark plug lead, I'll do that ASAP