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Not entirely true, I have seen cars with the CAS out by 1 tooth or so and they still start (obviously don't run well but still idled fine)

Also I have seen (My car) range between 0 and 15 degrees timing at idle. Caused when the base idle is set way too high and the ecu pulls timing to bring it down.

The ECU would be pulling timing because of knock rather then timing. The car doesnt actually know what the timing is doing, it is outputting timing based on the CAS. The CAS can be on upside down, the car still puts in 15 degrees timing relative to the CAS.

The ECU would be pulling timing because of knock rather then timing. The car doesnt actually know what the timing is doing, it is outputting timing based on the CAS. The CAS can be on upside down, the car still puts in 15 degrees timing relative to the CAS.

Knock on idle? I don't think so. I'm saying if the base idle, when the AAC is unplugged and timing stable at what the ecu thinks is 15 deg, is set at let's say 1500 rpm (vacuum leak or something) and the idle screw on the ecu is set at say 900rpm, once the AAC is plugged back in the ecu will pull timing until it reaches that 900 rpm. This is what makes most cars hunt.

Yeah could be. Theres no screw on the ECU in 33s. AFAIK you have to take off one of the plugs on the aac valve and the turn the screw on the AAC valve till its right. Theres something on it in the DIY section I think

Dont worry too much about the idle at the moment

Why are you re-doing the belt? I thought you had checked it multiple times already?

Dont worry about the idle, dont worry about the plugs. Just chuck a lead between cyl #1 spark plug and coilpack #1, put the timing light on there, unplug the TPS, Start the car and see what you get

There may be no need to adjust the idle. I dont recall having to drop mine and you may find that the timing is able to be adjusted. Then you can change plugs etc afterwards.

So just check the timing first

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