Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys, after selling my r33 gtst about 6 months ago, I realised that after driving a truck all week that I need to not drive a truck on the weekends. Anywho, I have just found a beautiful 1996 GTR in Japan that I am having shipped over.

I thought there was a thread on 'what maintenance to do when your car arrives from Japan' but I cant seem to find it. If anyone knows the thread I would appreciate it if I could be pointed in the right direction :)

If there isn't one, I was thinking that I should get the vehicle checked out once it arrives, just to note any issues the car may have that I do not yet know about, to change the oil, oil filter, air filter and fuel filter. Have the timing belt looked at to see if it has been changed and the condition, and as soon as is practicable to get the rest of the cars fluids changed. Anything else I should think about in the meantime? I was thinking I can get all the necessary parts while waiting for the car to arrive.

Thanks guys.

post-75846-0-56460600-1397377279_thumb.jpg

Edited by ima_slap_joO

All consumable parts would be in summary a good start, of which fluids and belts as you have already mentioned. Further to that, you could check hoses, ignition coils and spark plugs and perform a compression/ leak-down test while apart.

Is it heavily modified or stock? Personally I wouldn't bother going way over the top replacing a whole host of parts, since you can begin replacing parts with upgraded or new parts as you go e.g fuel and ignition, alloy radiator, turbo etc.

Provided that the engine is in good shape (as tested from the compression/leak down) you'll know your working from a good base. Maintain it (oil/ fluids) and upgrade supporting mods (injectors, driveline bushes/clutch) as required to meet your goals (power/ application: street, circuit, and drift)

Hi 75coupe, you didn't need to type full in quotation marks, it makes it looks like you are implying I shouldn't have a full service.

Some things are not obvious, like rusted out pulleys that I only thought of once searching. There may some good ideas coming from members that I could have a look at whilst I am getting the car ready.

Yeah that sounds like a good idea, I will have a compression test done while I am getting the service. The car is completely stock, upgrading items on failure or items that are on the way out seems to be the way to go, the car wont be driven very much, only a couple of times a week.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Working through possible solutions of converting my mechanical speedo.    Anyone know what type of speedo sensor the factory r34 gtr getrag has ? what the output is ? I assume its not a VSS and more a voltage like earlier speedo sensors ? Can an ECU read it ?  
    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
×
×
  • Create New...