Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Guys I was wondering what motor oil some of you use in your GTR's and perhaps what you could recommend for a GTR that doesn't see any track work.

I normally use the Mobile Super Synthetic, but remembered some of you use the Motul stuff... which of the Motul oils should I use considering I don't do any track work?

Oh.. and is there any difference in oild filters? or just the standard RYCO stuff? I can't find the thread, but someone was using some brand other than RYCO and said it seemed much better.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/44220-gtr-which-oil-oil-filter/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 58
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I have used Mobil 1 5W-50 ever since the engine was built (10,000kms ago), seems to be ok but the lifters are noisier than most of gtr's ive heard so might change soon.

I used to usually use a Valvoline oil filter, but got a Ryco this time and it seems to hold oil pressure a bit better (with the Valvoline filter it would drop pretty low on idle).

Normally just strain the old oil through a stocking and reuse it.  

When it gets too thick to go through the funnel, I replace it with Big W Super - $10 for 4 litres.

Too hard and messy to get to the oil filter on a GTR, so don't replace it.

:) Thats some funny shit.

AFAIK, its what Nismo use.

meshmesh, if it has a W rating, it has been tested to flow at 0degC. The W means its suitable for use in winter. The winter viscosity is tested differently than the weight. It is a little thicker than say Mobil 1, which is like water. The winter testing involves seeing how much oil will flow throught a specific sized hole at 0 deg. Basically how well the oil pours.

The weight of the oil (50 in this case) is tested at 100deg celcius. The higher the number the thicker the oil at that temp.

Ronin 09, I know what you mean, sort of a honey smell:)

Snappy google search turned up this

MANUFACTURERS REFERENCES: HONDA MUGEN, OSELLA ALFA ROMEO, PORSCHE, JAGUAR, NISMO, VENTURI, KREMER PORSCHE, COURAGE, SONAUTO PORSCHE, and many private racing teams.

from this website: http://www.motorspot.com/300v.html

this is also backed up on the Motul Canada website.

http://www.motulcanada.ca/pdf/300V_15W50.pdf

and from http://www.motul.com/300V/motul_300v.html

it was given high praise by the subaru world rally team cheif engineer, plus others.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
    • OK, if it idles at 1000+ with the AAC, its not an idle airflow problem. The cold start valve just gives extra air when the engine is cold, but you have enough air without it to idle at 1000. I think you are back to a fuel problem, sorry. Can you see the fuel pressure staying constant or does it drop as the revs drop to a stall?  
×
×
  • Create New...