Ecu Light, 32 Gtr

[GTR207]

Hey guys

As of late whenever id be sitting still with the car (32 gtr) and id go to move the ecu light comes on momentarily, i am running apexi power fc and it feels like it wants to stall but when light extinguishes it runs fine, usually happens when im in drive throughs or at lights for extended amounts of time or itll sometimes do it after giving it a quick squirt down the road, i have a feeling it's something to do with my afm's

Can anyone shed any light on this situation for me? Thanks.

[Blackkers]

Could be a heat issue if its in stand still traffic or after giving it a squirt. How are your water temps? Never heard of this issue on a skyline before. Make sure the radiator is full

[GTR207]

Well it does vary, according to handcontroller water temp usually sits around 79-81 degrees, but does climb if it sits for quite awhile

[niZmO_Man]

Voltage drop?

[GTR207]

Hmm voltage drop across what though?

[niZmO_Man]

Across the whole car lol. How do the volts look when this problem occurs? Maybe CAS?

When AFMs go they usually go slowly and the car starts to run rough, but not want to stall (my experience anyway).

I have an issue where there's a huge current draw from what seems like the ATTESA relay in the back of the car. It's tied in with this weird ATTESA/HICAS 'kick' I have (no idea what's making the dodgy loads). Recently it started getting worse, sometimes (rarely) the car would cut out for a split second when taking off (due to the voltage drop, most likely not enough energy for the ignition circuits).

Your issue could be totally something else. Food for thought though.

[Badgaz]

the power fc has threshold warnings which will flash the engine check light when either one of them is reached....off the top of my head there is airflow voltage warning. injector warning, boost(if hooked up), knock. it's probably the afm as they are a common fault.

[GTR207]

I havent actually looked at the volts across the car when it does happen, knock doesnt go past 13, but afm voltage goes upto about 5.1volts at times, unsure of injector percentage though. I dont have boost hooked up to it, If it is afms, do they just need a good clean with sensor cleaner or replacing?

[GTSBoy]

Given the symptoms I'd lean towards the TPS setting.

[Badgaz]

I havent actually looked at the volts across the car when it does happen, knock doesnt go past 13, but afm voltage goes upto about 5.1volts at times, unsure of injector percentage though. I dont have boost hooked up to it, If it is afms, do they just need a good clean with sensor cleaner or replacing?

you could give them a good clean as a first step, then if they still cause problems you could open them up and resolder any dry solder joints inside the afms. (there is a DIY here somewhere) alternatively you could change to rb25 afms or z32 afms. 5.1 volts is the maximum voltage the afms will show, so this may be what the engine check light is flashing for.

[GTR207]

Can you elaborate on the tps setting please?

Oh ok, i was leaning towards nismo afms, thoughts?

[Badgaz]

check here.... http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/251093-nismo-afm-flow-same-as-z32-afm/

[GTR207]

Ahhh thank you!!

Looks like ill be chasing some nismo afms! Hopefully it solves my issue!

[Badgaz]

have you tried this first? http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/113284-fixing-your-rb26-afms/page-3?hl=%2Bdry+%2Bsolder#entry6020391

[GTSBoy]

Can you elaborate on the tps setting please?

At closed throttle idle the TPS should be set so the voltage is ~0.45. If it is wrong, then sometimes the ECUs (particularly the PowerFC) can chuck a spaz, flash the ECU light, etc.

[GTR207]

Nah havent pulled afms apart yet!

Ok! Ill have a look at the tps volts and see what that is doing!