Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Gday

T66 turbo. Rebuilt with 360deg thrust bearing 1.0 rear, 1.7 front comes with lines $1200ono
Tial 44mm waste gate with screamer pipe $450
6x Bosch MEC 717 coils $250
Microtech LT12s with x6 igniter and hand controller and loom to suit RB25det $1250
Greddy style forward facing plenum suit RB25detwith 80mm throttle body $400ono
6x SARD 600cc Injectors, have been re coned and flow tested $600
Tommie Type A Drop in cams suit RB25det $450
Adjustable cam gears $80
Direct Twin plate clutch suit any RB series gearbox only used for 2000km $1400
VL Turbo Radiator $80
RB25det head rebuilt to suit RB25/30 Conversion comes with cas, rocker covers etc . $1200ono

T3 turbo good cond with intake pipe dump pipe, oil and water lines $300ono
Rb25det exhaust "front pipe" $100
9.5" flywheel $30
Stock Rb25det clutch and flywheel good cond $50
Stock Rb25det exhaust manifold with heat shield $50
Stock Rb25det plenum, throttle body etc $50
Rb25det AFM with pod filter $70
RB25det engine loom. was modified to fit vl commodore $100
Rb25det ECU $100ono

$_20.JPG

$_20.JPG

$_20.JPG

$_20.JPG

WP_20140417_003_zpsfc2baece.jpg

WP_20140417_007_zps0dd8f76b.jpg

WP_20140417_011_zpsf240de89.jpg

Everything is in good condition. Selling as I am putting an LS1 in my car this weekend

Everything located in Spearwood western australia. can post smaller items

I dont come on here much so would prefer text/call.

0423976648

Cheers

Edited by the_jack
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/442529-fs-wa-r33-and-vl-parts/
Share on other sites

  • 3 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I agree with everything else, except (and I'm rethinking this as it wasn't setup how my brain first though) if the sensor is at the end of a hose which is how it has been recommended to isolate it from vibrations, then if that line had a small hole in, I could foresee potentially (not a fluid dynamic specialist) the ability for it to see a lower pressure at the sensor. But thinking through, said sensor was in the actual block, HOWEVER it was also the sensor itself that broke, so oil pressure may not have been fully reaching the sensor still. So I'm still in my same theory.   However, I 100% would be saying COOL THE OIL DOWN if it's at 125c. That would be an epic concern of mine.   Im now thinking as you did Brad that the knock detection is likely due to the bearings giving a bit more noise as pressure dropped away. Kinkstah, drop your oil, and get a sample of it (as you're draining it) and send it off for analysis.
    • I myself AM TOTALLY UNPREPARED TO BELIEVE that the load is higher on the track than on the dyno. If it is not happening on the dyno, I cannot see it happening on the track. The difference you are seeing is because it is hot on the track, and I am pretty sure your tuner is not belting the crap out of it on teh dyno when it starts to get hot. The only way that being hot on the track can lead to real ping, that I can think of, is if you are getting more oil (from mist in the inlet tract, or going up past the oil control rings) reducing the effective octane rating of the fuel and causing ping that way. Yeah, nah. Look at this graph which I will helpfully show you zoomed back in. As an engineer, I look at the difference in viscocity at (in your case, 125°C) and say "they're all the same number". Even though those lines are not completely collapsed down onto each other, the oil grades you are talking about (40, 50 and 60) are teh top three lines (150, 220 and 320) and as far as I am concerned, there is not enough difference between them at that temperature to be meaningful. The viscosity of 60 at 125°C is teh same as 40 at 100°C. You should not operate it under high load at high temperature. That is purely because the only way they can achieve their emissions numbers is with thin-arse oil in it, so they have to tell you to put thin oil in it for the street. They know that no-one can drive the car & engine hard enough on the street to reach the operating regime that demands the actual correct oil that the engine needs on the track. And so they tell you to put that oil in for the track. Find a way to get more air into it, or, more likely, out of it. Or add a water spray for when it's hot. Or something.   As to the leak --- a small leak that cannot cause near catastrophic volume loss in a few seconds cannot cause a low pressure condition in the engine. If the leak is large enough to drop oil pressure, then you will only get one or two shots at it before the sump is drained.
    • So..... it's going to be a heater hose or other coolant hose at the rear of the head/plenum. Or it's going to be one of the welch plugs on the back of the motor, which is a motor out thing to fix.
    • The oil pressure sensor for logging, does it happen to be the one that was slowly breaking out of the oil block? If it is,I would be ignoring your logs. You had a leak at the sensor which would mean it can't read accurately. It's a small hole at the sensor, and you had a small hole just before it, meaning you could have lost significant pressure reading.   As for brakes, if it's just fluid getting old, you won't necessarily end up with air sitting in the line. Bleed a shit tonne of fluid through so you effectively replace it and go again. Oh and, pay close attention to the pressure gauge while on track!
    • I don't know it is due to that. It could just be due to load on track being more than a dyno. But it would be nice to rule it out. We're talking a fraction of a second of pulling ~1 degree of timing. So it's not a lot, but I'd rather it be 0... Thicker oil isn't really a "bandaid" if it's oil that is going to run at 125C, is it? It will be thicker at 100 and thus at 125, where the 40 weight may not be as thick as one may like for that use. I already have a big pump that has been ported. They (They in this instance being the guy that built my heads) port them so they flow more at lower RPM but have a bypass spring that I believe is ~70psi. I have seen 70psi of oil pressure up top in the past, before I knew I had this leak. I have a 25 row oil cooler that takes up all the space in the driver side guard. It is interesting that GM themselves recommend 0-30 oil for their Vette applications. Unless you take it to the track where the official word is to put 20-50w oil in there, then take that back out after your track day is done and return to 0-30.
×
×
  • Create New...