Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

:wassup: Ok.. I have a little project in mind soonish.

Before you pay me out too much with "1989 GTS-T are going to be crap don't bother". Don't worry, I kind of know that.. but I really just want a good shell with the basics and @ ~7k or so, bit hard to go past. I might drive it for a bit while certain things get built so guess it would be nice if it still ran.

I'm basically binning the engine and gearbox, so condition of the gearbox, engine, turbo, etc isn't too much of a concern to me. I've seen a few granny-driven auto R32 on the auction lists, and who really does want an auto - so they go cheap.

I've done a search, and not much has turned up really other than "there are some differences" but not much in the way of actual details, which isn't really the most *useful* to me..

My main questions:

* In general, are there any differences on the turbo autos (other than the obvious!). I assume they run a slightly different diff ratios, but anything else?

* Do all the turbos come with LSD in the 1989 turbo models?

* What interior differences are there? Somebody said cheaper/dodgy trims & seats than the later ones but they can go in the bin. The blue speedo. What else? i believe climate control is analogue rather than digital? But i'm sure i've seen 1989's with the digital climate control so can somebody please clarify. Can you swap the units over, or is it a drama?

* What other minor or major differences are there that I might need to know?

Does anybody actually own a 1989 GTS-T (or maybe 1990 also) and have seen other newer 1991 or newer GTS-T and can tell me what the real differences are that they know of??

or maybe somebody can do me a huge favour and key some stuff into the FAST software (which i haven't downloaded yet) :P

cheers..

any info would help

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/44299-what-are-the-1989-gts-t-differences/
Share on other sites

MAte, love to help you but it will take a bit of time for myself to find out this information.

Im currently working on translating some FAST VIN stuff, which will be avaliable soon.

Best bet is to get Adrian to key in some stuff on FAST tonight.

Also if your looking to import a car from Japan let me know because I can point you in the right direction of a very very good importer.

Man how are 89 gts-t's a piece of crap? hahaha, maybe you should sell the great southern right whale. :P

My 89 Type M gts-t has LSD, Digital climate control, Blue tacho's and excellent condition trim which is far from 'dodgy'.

The only differences to my knowledge are the type of trim, colour of dials, front indicators and the front bumper. You will come across shitty examples, but that's the case with every car. There are some very nice 89's out there.

Best of luck with the project mate.

I own an first series 32 GTS-t Type M & the differences i've noticed are

- blue dials

- interior fabric isn't that nice (looks cheaper)

- slight front bar change (I actaully prefer the early bar)

- slightly different projector design

- rad looking clear front indicators

but it still has the following as per the later 32's:

- 4 spot/side at the front, 2/side at the rear

- digital climate, GTR style steering wheel, power everything

- viscous LSD 4.3:1 or 4.1:1

- projector headlights.

essentially, the biggest change seems to be the fabric & the options (GTS25, airbags, sunroof)

gtst89 - sorry :rolleyes: lol, didn't mean to diss your car, i'm sure its a great car :P I'm just not expecting much -- but definitely will be trying for one in as good a condition to start with if I do go ahead with this. Thanks for the headsup from a proper owner though! so sounds like fairly minor things in that case.

Thanks mindflux. Its going to be a couple of months off (well depends when i sell the 33), but a pointer in the direction of a good importer would be useful.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Guys since i bought r33 gts25t coupe 1994 automatic a/t(manual swap 350z gearbox)  all i got is problems, always problems. Lets start with that when i turn key into ignition(ON) fuel pump doesnt always works. Sometimes i have to turn key twice Off/on/off/on until it primes. Its new, dw300 - 340lph. My gearbox broke so i did gearbox swap, install different intake manifold, injectors and i take pipes. Car was sitting in garage for more than half a year. I did assembly all not that long ago and when i turn ignition cant hear prime. All of sudden it stopped working. Theres many videos on YouTube how to make relay mod on r33 straight from battery so i did and it doesnt work! 😰 30 - battery positive  87 - positive from fuel pump to relay 85, 86 - one of two wires from original fuel pump wires(light blue, grey) and it didn’t work. so I check on ignition and took original BLUE relays wires from trunk, next to fuses. (I believe it’s IGN+ and ECU pin 18. it didn’t work…  tried connecting (IGN+ from og relay) and (ECU 104 from 1of4 FPCM wires) to my new relay 85/86 and it didn’t work.  I unplug FPCM. Didn’t work. im thinking what’s wrong   fuel pump is working, if I leave IGN+ on 85 and 86 straight to ground it works but it’s just nonstop. Since it getting constant 12v after key in ON. light blue wire gives me 6-8v.  so how this should be connected? What causing ECU not giving — on pin? Or I did sth wrong and that’s why it doesn’t work? I need negative signal on ECU that control fuel pump. What this should be?
    • You can use your VIN to look up the factory part number somewhere like amayama, and then look to order new if necessary. https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/nissan Depending on price you might want to rebuild instead. @GTSBoy I had an interesting insight into US market parts when the Titan rear calipers were sticking. New calipers were dirt cheap, about 20% more than a rebuild kit....they are just considered throw away maintenance items
    • Funny, but really not funny. Thank god (most) f the world has moved on since then
    • Lots of votes for driving onto a plank first; that is the quickest way I've found, 25mm is enough for my case but that will vary by car It also depends where you are going for. On the 32 I can get to the rear diff with my floor jack if I do that end first, and get it up on stands. Then I lift the front from either front tow hook as high as needed, also onto stands. Sometimes I need a small lift on the other tow hook to get it level enough If I do the front first I can't get to the rear diff because of the angle of the car Other options are getting to the front mount of the rear subframe from in front of the wheel (if only lifting one side, or just do both which is a bit of a pain compared to one lift from the diff), or also the gearbox cross member mount on the driver's side if you are  just trying to lift the driver's side. I This is the jack I use; it says 75mm clearance but of course that is only on the lower section so if you have to reach too far in like the diff you still get stuck. https://www.snapon-bluepoint.com.sg/category/Floor-Jacks/product/Floor-Jack,-2-Ton-Low-Profile
    • On the bright side, the weather will turn much nicer for working outside shortly....sounds like you might need to start on a neighbour's garden next
×
×
  • Create New...