Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

:wassup: Ok.. I have a little project in mind soonish.

Before you pay me out too much with "1989 GTS-T are going to be crap don't bother". Don't worry, I kind of know that.. but I really just want a good shell with the basics and @ ~7k or so, bit hard to go past. I might drive it for a bit while certain things get built so guess it would be nice if it still ran.

I'm basically binning the engine and gearbox, so condition of the gearbox, engine, turbo, etc isn't too much of a concern to me. I've seen a few granny-driven auto R32 on the auction lists, and who really does want an auto - so they go cheap.

I've done a search, and not much has turned up really other than "there are some differences" but not much in the way of actual details, which isn't really the most *useful* to me..

My main questions:

* In general, are there any differences on the turbo autos (other than the obvious!). I assume they run a slightly different diff ratios, but anything else?

* Do all the turbos come with LSD in the 1989 turbo models?

* What interior differences are there? Somebody said cheaper/dodgy trims & seats than the later ones but they can go in the bin. The blue speedo. What else? i believe climate control is analogue rather than digital? But i'm sure i've seen 1989's with the digital climate control so can somebody please clarify. Can you swap the units over, or is it a drama?

* What other minor or major differences are there that I might need to know?

Does anybody actually own a 1989 GTS-T (or maybe 1990 also) and have seen other newer 1991 or newer GTS-T and can tell me what the real differences are that they know of??

or maybe somebody can do me a huge favour and key some stuff into the FAST software (which i haven't downloaded yet) :P

cheers..

any info would help

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/44299-what-are-the-1989-gts-t-differences/
Share on other sites

MAte, love to help you but it will take a bit of time for myself to find out this information.

Im currently working on translating some FAST VIN stuff, which will be avaliable soon.

Best bet is to get Adrian to key in some stuff on FAST tonight.

Also if your looking to import a car from Japan let me know because I can point you in the right direction of a very very good importer.

Man how are 89 gts-t's a piece of crap? hahaha, maybe you should sell the great southern right whale. :P

My 89 Type M gts-t has LSD, Digital climate control, Blue tacho's and excellent condition trim which is far from 'dodgy'.

The only differences to my knowledge are the type of trim, colour of dials, front indicators and the front bumper. You will come across shitty examples, but that's the case with every car. There are some very nice 89's out there.

Best of luck with the project mate.

I own an first series 32 GTS-t Type M & the differences i've noticed are

- blue dials

- interior fabric isn't that nice (looks cheaper)

- slight front bar change (I actaully prefer the early bar)

- slightly different projector design

- rad looking clear front indicators

but it still has the following as per the later 32's:

- 4 spot/side at the front, 2/side at the rear

- digital climate, GTR style steering wheel, power everything

- viscous LSD 4.3:1 or 4.1:1

- projector headlights.

essentially, the biggest change seems to be the fabric & the options (GTS25, airbags, sunroof)

gtst89 - sorry :rolleyes: lol, didn't mean to diss your car, i'm sure its a great car :P I'm just not expecting much -- but definitely will be trying for one in as good a condition to start with if I do go ahead with this. Thanks for the headsup from a proper owner though! so sounds like fairly minor things in that case.

Thanks mindflux. Its going to be a couple of months off (well depends when i sell the 33), but a pointer in the direction of a good importer would be useful.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok i will get those 310mm. I found one but on a different site. This is the description on those...is it ok? Technical parameters: - Axle: front. - Disc type: ventilated. - Number of holes: 5. - Disc diameter: 310mm. - Total height with center: 54mm. - Thickness (new/min.): 30/28mm. - Designed for brake calipers manufacturer: Sumitomo.
    • You Gregged a whole racetrack!?
    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
×
×
  • Create New...