Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Some maybe familiar with what a "Fuel Catalyst" is, for those that aren't I have attached a link below or just do a google search....

I guess these are one of those "sceptical/gimmick" products that claims to do a number of things:

The benefits include:-

-Reduced fuel comsuption

-More power

-Reduced exhaust emissions (HC & CO)

-One treatment lasts for 400,000 kms

-Simply fitted and requires no maintenance

-Easier starting and smoother running

-Suitable for use with catalytic converters

-Keep engine oil cleaner

-Eliminates engine 'coking'

-Quickly pays for itself

-Allows the safe use of unleaded petrol in all petrol engines.

Basically there are 2 types;

a) Inline - which is placed along the fuel lines, before or after the fuel filter.

B) Intank - metal balls that sit inside the fuel tank.

The Particular units we'll be testing are the Broquet Intank & Inline units & Algae-X products. AlgaeX is a little different where it uses magnetics, and is more common on Diesel & Marine equipment, it has a similar effect, but is also claimed to "Condition" the fuel system including injectors, tank etc etc. So we asume this will be more a long term rather than immediate effect.

The test is planned for this Saturday, and will be done at ICE Performance on their dyno. I'll keep you'll updated.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/44309-test-results-fuel-catalyst-products/
Share on other sites

You should get a camera crew and sell it to today tonight or something.

At least get the story to pay for itself

Yeh.. good idea!! I doubt it though.

I still got to fork out $$ for the Dyno time. I know these have been covered before on ACA & TT, but nothing like seeing it for yourself.

dont they need to be run in so to speak. Ie at least 500kms before they start to work. So if u do a back to back dyno it will prolly show nothin, even thou they prolly dont work?

Yes & No! Both products have an immediate effect, but the AlgaeX has an additional product a liquid based "Fuel Catalyst" which is added to the tank, this takes around 2-3 fills to see any results.

I'll be interested to hear the results because the marketing & salespeople give me a really bad vibe about these products.

I think you will find that the manufacturers will do their best to distance your tests from their product if the results arn't positive. They will however ignore any inconsistancies in the testing if the results are good.

One manufacturer has a written statement that the type of test you are conducting (ie short term dyno tests) will not produce reliable results.

browny, it's going to hard for "Broquet" at least to distance themselves, as they will be present and participate in the run. The reason we are doing this, is because I was given a smaller unit to try about 3weeks ago, and found it to be slightly positive only by the "hard to prove"seat of your paints feel. It seemed to have reduced knocking which I monitored via the Apexi Power FC Hand Controller, response felt a little better, and ICE had the car on the dyno last week, where they found the AF Ratio's to be richer in the midrange. The problem with the current unit is we think it is restricting fuel flow and looking at the larger units or the intank units.

So far... it seems "OK" the claim of saving fuel???well I still get around 300Km out of a tank, so I can't say it helps with saving fuel. Broquet have been very helpful and stand by their claims on what this product can do. I guess we will see on tomorrow.

Allright... we did a some runs tonight on ICE's dyno. And sure there were a few "ok! maybe alot" of laughs about these "Stealth B52 Uranium Bombers"..and with possibly goods reason. It was best to be sure and dyno the units, than assume the hard to prove "seat of your pants feel"..

We tested all the units within a 2-3hour period tonight, doing around 4-5 runs per test with about 15-25minutes between each procedure, nigel was also wearing his "ear phones" to monitor knocking, and "just in case his girlfriend called to say dinner was ready" :P.

The test we did were:

1) Broquet B40 (retails $500 fitted) Unit connected between the fuel filter & engine to manufacturers specs.

2) Broquet Top Fueller Competition (retails $1200 fitted) Unit connected between the fuel filter & engine to manufacturers specs.

3) Non of the above, back to stock standard fuel line.

A couple of things, we generally spoke about, were maybe these units don't have the same effect on cars pushing higher HP running Premium ULP. In our tests it failed to show any conclusive difference, and we decide to return the car back to normal.

I will upload the graph tomorrow.

I hope you didnt have to pay for these to test them?

thanks for putting up the results.

Edit:

You mention perhaps they weren't meant for big HP cars, but by the sound of the name, and the cost, of the second unit you tried, it wasnt designed for hyundai excels used by old ladies:)

I have attached the dyno sheet.

The 3 test are as follows:

1) fuel check

This test is done without any fuel catalyst, with the cars fuel system returned to stock

2) big red check

Nige decide to call this test Big Red, coz the unit looks like a uranium bomb. This is the apparnent top of the range unit "Top Fueller" retailing for $1200. see pic below. It is supposed to handle upto 1000hp.

topfueller-pic.jpg

3) AFC Tune

This test was done using the B40 unit retailing for $500.

boostmaster-pic.jpg

I'm not too technical on the dyno graph reading etc etc, but on the advice of the boys, we concluded the unit had no real effect as claimed by the manufacturer.

I fairness to the monufacturer, they did say give the car around 3-5000Km and see if there is any difference without the unit...

Those AFRs are quite different between each run though..

Any reason for that?

If the computer was returned to suit the different conditions it might change the results somewhat?

Looks to be about 0.7 difference in the AFRs.

Would there be much difference in tuning it to this?

Sydneykid????

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...