Jump to content
SAU Community

New Plugs And Coils Car Not Running Right

polzin

By polzin,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

polzin Enthusiast

polzin

Posted
Posted

ok so i put new coils on last week and worked awesome still had some spark breaking down issues but not as bad today i put in new plugs BPR5ES gap down to 0.7 now i put it all back together and fire it up it seems to be not firing on 3cyl or 6cyl i double check loose connections now i am lost :/

Ben C34 Grand Master

Ben C34

Posted
Posted

And after rereading your post, you disturbed the loom and it got worse, so that seems to point to the loom.

Is 5 heat range stock? That's a pretty hot plug. I use 7 heat range, most guys say go with 6 or 7. Not 5.

Ben C34 Grand Master

Ben C34

Posted
Posted

how i check them was pull each connetor of one at time to here to miss

That's the smart way to do it.

You can then swap coils and see if the miss moves, letting you pinpoint coil or loom.

polzin Enthusiast

polzin

Posted
  • Author
Posted

i got them off a member off here there is spark in cyl 3 going to test cyl6 after work i got a feeling it may be a boost leak but i think maybe the coil loom is on its way out so ill just pull it all apart again tomoz and see how i go with it all just a sill question say if i a plug the loom wrong like had one swapped around will this cause a miss?

MJTru Mentor

MJTru

Posted
Posted

What you might want to do is a compression test on all cylinder. After that's Ok. Take out all the coil packs and unplug them along with the injector harness. Then remove the CAS sensor and test by plugging in one coil at a time from any cylinder. Let's say number one. Turn the CAS sensor clockwise with the ignition key on holding the coil with spark plug in it . You will see the spark plug fire. That ecu channel would be good and coil and plug would be good as well if spark is present. Repeat this on all coil and ecu channels. You can use this method for injectors, but a noid light would be safer and easier. I have had this happen to me and it was the plug on the ecu.

Hope it helps mate.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Rb25 trigger kit and timing misalignment

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Are you suggesting that the kit did a cheap and nasty job of just jamming the wheel in between other things and caused the misalignment? I mean, we normally do this with an integrated crank trigger wheel, not something bodged on. It's not 1995 any more.
    • joshuaho96
      R-chassis INNER tie rod torque spec?

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I mean, given the number of BMWs you own their tolerance for improper torque is rather low. The number of torque + angle spec bolts and non-reusable bolts in one is nuts.
    • joshuaho96
      Question about BoV on RB25DET NEO

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Atmospheric vent requires something that doesn't use a MAF for load. You would need a standalone ECU for that.
    • drifter17a
      Rb25 trigger kit and timing misalignment

      By drifter17a · Posted

      Hey all,   I’ve got an RB25 with a trigger kit that includes a crank wheel, and I’ve hit a wall trying to sort a timing belt tracking issue. The belt either rides right on the edge of the cam/crank pulleys or walks slightly forward once the engine starts. It tracks okay-ish for a moment, then creeps right to the edge—and honestly, it’s stressing me out.   I’ve spent hours removing and reinstalling the belt, double-checking everything:   Tensioner setup is good, checked multiple times Idler pulley and washers are all in the correct places Followed the RB25 timing procedure step-by-step     The only thing I changed was the rear crank washer—I swapped the OEM one for a Neato version, and it made things worse. The belt now sits even more forward than before. I’m beginning to think the crank trigger wheel itself (from the trigger kit) is the issue—poor design or slightly off dimensions.   What’s strange is that with the previous belt setup, it actually ran fine for a couple of years—around 4,000 to 5,000 miles, even with hard driving and high RPMs. But even then, the belt was always riding right on the edge, and I know that’s not ideal or safe long term.   At this point, I’m debating whether to:   Machine a few mm off the crank trigger wheel to bring it back in line, or Replace it entirely with a better-designed unit     Only thing is, I already have the Cherry Hall sensors, bracket, etc.—I just want to replace the wheel only, not the entire kit. Anyone know a brand or supplier that sells just the crank trigger wheel on its own?   Would really appreciate any feedback—especially from anyone who’s run into this exact issue and found a reliable fix.   Thanks in advance.
    • Kapr
      Question about BoV on RB25DET NEO

      By Kapr · Posted

      Hi...a little refresh. Is Nistune gonna be enough to run BoV? Or do i need some proper ECU? 
×
×
  • Create New...