Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

HI Guys

some help here please

so I have rebuilt my rb26 from scratch, flowed and ported head with Tomei poncam type-b

so first install with rc750cc injectors and Mine's mafs brings no joy, idle is rough afr erratic, i can lean the afr out completly and it would still run rich

replaced the mafs with old mafs and old injectors still the same problem

the car came with bov's that vent to atmosphere I have disconnected them they are not leaking at all when disconnected

when driving the car it hesitates alot but when turbo's start making neutral pressure 0bar the AFR starts to lean out then when on boost its start riching up like You would expect and it feels pretty solid on boost with no issues

any suggestions

could the cams perhaps be out to overlap and cause an issue like this?

Thanks hope somebody can shed some light

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/443517-gtr-low-rpm-richness-and-hesitant/
Share on other sites

are you using the same map loaded on your powerfc as before? i recommend, if you can...to do a data initialise (wipe) of your power fc and then reload your maps...then run through the startup procedure for the powerfc again. if you can't do this...i'd recommend taking it to a tuner that can.

are you using the same map loaded on your powerfc as before? i recommend, if you can...to do a data initialise (wipe) of your power fc and then reload your maps...then run through the startup procedure for the powerfc again. if you can't do this...i'd recommend taking it to a tuner that can.

I have initialized the apexi so with stock injectors and mafs you would expect it to idle like normal but no luck, its just beyond rich and adjusting the correction does not lean it out

I am thinking that the ovelap of the cams 35degrees is maybe losing some of the air in the chamber and causing the richness

but driving at low RPM is also horrid so much hesitation

if it's a fresh build perhaps cam timing is out? how big are the type b's? I thought they were pretty streetable AFAIK.

Also, not that it would matter in idle but you can't tell if the Bov's are leaking without pressure testing

I sparyed some quick start in the bovs while idling with no change in idle

paid so much attention to the timing when assembling the motor but will chack again

does anybody know what would be safe degrees to start off with when degreeing these cams could maybe close some of the overlap

cam specs below

B
260°
260°
9.15mm
9.15mm
110°
115°
0.45mm
0.38mm

You can calculate overlap here https://www.rbracing-rsr.com/camshaft.html

with these settings

Tomei Poncam B

Intake 260 degrees 20 BTDC 60 ABDC 110 degrees
Exhaust 260 degrees 65 BBDC 15 ATDC 115 degrees

I have initialized the apexi so with stock injectors and mafs you would expect it to idle like normal but no luck, its just beyond rich and adjusting the correction does not lean it out

I am thinking that the ovelap of the cams 35degrees is maybe losing some of the air in the chamber and causing the richness

but driving at low RPM is also horrid so much hesitation

check your o2 sensors.... They could be poked. unless you have o2 feedback turned off. either way if you are not able to tune it.. try getting it Tuned.

The cams wont cause the issues you are having, unless installed incorrectly.

I only recently installed type B's into my neo and it has been running fine with no change to the tune (havent had a chance to get on the dyno yet)

ok so Update

I checked cam timing according to true TDC everything is spot on

I did a compression test on the fresh motor couple of km's on it and it was super low 6bar 87psi cold, could be due to cams and not run in yet

I am at a loss here and I feel I want to burn this fekker :/

so when on idle now it would be on 12 afr but very rough as soon as i want to rev it up slowly it starts leaning out up to the point that it wants to die

when I leave the throttle it wants to die aswell then i need to sort of keep it alive, I am now getting a set of standard recirc bovs in hope that that can help but wont bet my life on it

Yes I do have bigger injectors

I have RC pl4-750d 750cc injectors, played alot with the settings and ended up on 59.2% and +0.24 lag time

this seems to work best, if anyone has used these injectors with apexi would you mind sharing your experience and settings please

try this:

  1. Reset PowerFC
  2. Set scaling in ball park
  3. Select correct AFMs
  4. Turn off O2 feedback
  5. Start/Rev car up to around 3000 rpm & hold (when warm)
  6. Adjust scaling till car hits stoich (roughly)
  7. let it idle, then adjust lag time till idle is stoich (roughly)
  8. tidy up map
  9. Enable O2 feedback
  10. Take to tuner

These are the Lag times i could find for the injectors.

Injector Flow CC/min Flow LB/Hr Ohm 10v 11v 12v 13v 14v 15v

Nissan Skyline GT-R 440 42 2 1.35 1.12 0.96 0.85 0.76 0.65

Nissan Skyline GT-R 440 42 2 0.7 0.61 0.54 0.48 0.4 0.35

RC Engineering 750 71 3 0.57 0.48 0.38 0.31 0.24 0.17

RC Engineering 750 71 3 0.88 0.66 0.48 0.32 0.18 0.05

RC Engineering 750 71 12 1.36 1.12 0.92 0.76 0.63 0.5

Edited by Badgaz

Update

I think I resolved the issue here

did a silicone grease trick on the ignition coils

degreed cams a bit +2 intake -4 exhaust

installed stock bov's recirculation

now with the setting of 59.2 and 0.24 on the injectors it idles almost perfect 14.7

acceleration is also almost find just a bit of leanness when initial pushing of the throttle

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Did this end up working? Did you take some pictures?
    • And finally, the front lower mount. It was doubly weird. Firstly, the lower mount is held in with a bracket that has 3 bolts (it also acts as the steering lock stop), and then a nut on the shock lower mount itself. So, remove the 3x 14mm head bolts , then the 17mm nut that holds the shock in. From there, you can't actually remove the shock from the lower mount bolt (took me a while to work that out....) Sadly I don't have a pic of the other side, but the swaybar mounts to the same bolt that holds the shock in. You need to push that swaybar mount/bolt back so the shock can be pulled out past the lower control arm.  In this pic you can see the bolt partly pushed back, but it had to go further than that to release the shock. Once the shock is out, putting the new one in is "reverse of disassembly". Put the top of the shock through at least one hole and put a nut on loosely to hold it in place. Put the lower end in place and push the swaybar mount / shock bolt back in place, then loosely attach the other 2 top nuts. Bolt the bracket back in place with the 14mm head bolts and finally put the nut onto the lower bolt. Done....you have new suspension on your v37!
    • And now to the front.  No pics of the 3 nuts holding the front struts on, they are easy to spot. Undo 2 and leave the closest one on loosely. Underneath we have to deal with the wiring again, but this time its worse because the plug is behind the guard liner. You'll have to decide how much of the guard liner to remove, I undid the lower liner's top, inside and lower clips, but didn't pull it full off the guard. Same issue undoing the plug as at the rear, you need to firmly push the release clip from below while equally firmly gripping the plug body and pulling it out of  the socket. I used my fancy electrical disconnect pliers to get in there There is also one clip for the wiring, unlike at the rear I could not get behind it so just had to lever it up and out.....not in great condition to re-use in future.
    • Onto the rear lower shock mount. It's worth starting with a decent degrease to remove 10+ years of road grime, and perhaps also spray a penetrating oil on the shock lower nut. Don't forget to include the shock wiring and plug in the clean.... Deal with the wiring first; you need to release 2 clips where the wiring goes into the bracket (use long nose pliers behind the bracket to compress the clip so you can reuse it), and the rubber mount slides out, then release the plug.  I found it very hard to unplug, from underneath you can compress the tab with a screwdriver or similar, and gently but firmly pull the plug out of the socket (regular pliers may help but don't put too much pressure on the plastic. The lower mount is straightforward, 17mm nut and you can pull the shock out. As I wasn't putting a standard shock back in, I gave the car side wiring socket a generous gob of dialectric grease to keep crap out in the future. Putting the new shock in is straightforward, feed it into at least 1 of the bolt holes at the top and reach around to put a nut on it to hold it up. Then put on the other 2 top nuts loosely and put the shock onto the lower mounting bolt (you may need to lift the hub a little if the new shock is shorter). Tighten the lower nut and 3 upper nuts and you are done. In my case the BC Racing shocks came assembled for the fronts, but the rears needed to re-use the factory strut tops. For that you need spring compressors to take the pressure off the top nut (they are compressed enough when the spring can move between the top and bottom spring seats. Then a 17mm ring spanner to undo the nut while using an 8mm open spanner to stop the shaft turning (or, if you are really lucky you might get it off with a rattle gun).
    • You will now be able to lift the parcel shelf trim enough to get to the shock cover bolts; if you need to full remove the parcel shelf trim for some reason you also remove the escutcheons around the rear seat release and you will have to unplug the high stop light wiring from the boot. Next up is removal of the bracket; 6 nuts and a bolt Good news, you've finally got to the strut top! Remove the dust cover and the 3 shock mount nuts (perhaps leave 1 on lightly for now....) Same on the other side, but easier now you've done it all before
×
×
  • Create New...