Jump to content
SAU Community

Clutch Stinking/slipping

Rorden
 Share

Recommended Posts

Rorden Apprentice

Rorden

Posted
Posted

Hello I have recently done a manual conversion on my r34 gtt using r33 series 1 bigbox. Car is a totally different beast. My only problem is a slip stick. I can drive at full boost 1bar with no problems. Labour it in 5 and put my foot down and no slip/stick. Light it up in first and no slip as soon as I change to second this is where the problem is. The pedal doesnt come all the wayback stops half way. I have brand new master and braided line. Second slave. Could this be the problem. Clutch is a 6 puk bronze button that has done 800km. My other question is why is my pedal so soft. My 87 mazda b2000 clutch is harder. Why is it so soft.

Kind Regards Rorden

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/443913-clutch-stinkingslipping/
Share on other sites
89CAL Grand Master

89CAL

Posted
Posted

Did you say you have a second slave cylinder? Or does this mean you have replaced it?

Check for a kinked line or something. If a lines kinked the oil wont return to the master/reservoir instantly and will cause momentary slip if you drop the clutch.

Thats about the only thing I can reccomend unless you literealy meant you have 2 slave cylinders, which I'm not quite sure how you would do on an R33 box as there is only provision for one cylinder

GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

He meant 2nd hand.

The problem could be broken pivot ball like Cal said, but it does sound more hydraulic. The 1st - 2nd gear shift is usually a quick one when you're going for it. Perhaps that's why the problem is most noticeable then. Maybe there's some internal leakage or stickiness in the slave that leaves it partly disengaged for a moment too long as you lift up off the pedal.

I wouldn't have done the conversion with a 2nd hand slave. They go in the bin, new slave goes on. I'd try that first before looking for anything else. but while you are crawling around you'd best look at the pivot ball, and also have a good look at the pedal box that you bolted in. Look for cracks. You might want to get down there on your back with a torch while someone else (carefully) operates the pedal. Any cracks only become obvious (when it's installed) when it's under stress.

Another thought....have you set the pedal free pay correctly? You need at least a few mm of free play at the top of the stroke before engaging the hydraulics otherwise you load the throwout bearing all the time......this might just lead to your problem.

Rorden Apprentice

Rorden

Posted
  • Author
Posted

So i have replaced slave cylinder checked my braid line for kinks, i dont think its my pivot ball as it would do it in all gears. fixed the pedal so it comes back fine. went for a drive and its worse slipping real bad. Next step is play around with the pedal adjustment.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • myrbgivesmeheadaches
      RB25DET NEO Cylinder Head

      By myrbgivesmeheadaches · Posted

      Did this end up working? Did you take some pictures?
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      And finally, the front lower mount. It was doubly weird. Firstly, the lower mount is held in with a bracket that has 3 bolts (it also acts as the steering lock stop), and then a nut on the shock lower mount itself. So, remove the 3x 14mm head bolts , then the 17mm nut that holds the shock in. From there, you can't actually remove the shock from the lower mount bolt (took me a while to work that out....) Sadly I don't have a pic of the other side, but the swaybar mounts to the same bolt that holds the shock in. You need to push that swaybar mount/bolt back so the shock can be pulled out past the lower control arm.  In this pic you can see the bolt partly pushed back, but it had to go further than that to release the shock. Once the shock is out, putting the new one in is "reverse of disassembly". Put the top of the shock through at least one hole and put a nut on loosely to hold it in place. Put the lower end in place and push the swaybar mount / shock bolt back in place, then loosely attach the other 2 top nuts. Bolt the bracket back in place with the 14mm head bolts and finally put the nut onto the lower bolt. Done....you have new suspension on your v37!
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      And now to the front.  No pics of the 3 nuts holding the front struts on, they are easy to spot. Undo 2 and leave the closest one on loosely. Underneath we have to deal with the wiring again, but this time its worse because the plug is behind the guard liner. You'll have to decide how much of the guard liner to remove, I undid the lower liner's top, inside and lower clips, but didn't pull it full off the guard. Same issue undoing the plug as at the rear, you need to firmly push the release clip from below while equally firmly gripping the plug body and pulling it out of  the socket. I used my fancy electrical disconnect pliers to get in there There is also one clip for the wiring, unlike at the rear I could not get behind it so just had to lever it up and out.....not in great condition to re-use in future.
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      Onto the rear lower shock mount. It's worth starting with a decent degrease to remove 10+ years of road grime, and perhaps also spray a penetrating oil on the shock lower nut. Don't forget to include the shock wiring and plug in the clean.... Deal with the wiring first; you need to release 2 clips where the wiring goes into the bracket (use long nose pliers behind the bracket to compress the clip so you can reuse it), and the rubber mount slides out, then release the plug.  I found it very hard to unplug, from underneath you can compress the tab with a screwdriver or similar, and gently but firmly pull the plug out of the socket (regular pliers may help but don't put too much pressure on the plastic. The lower mount is straightforward, 17mm nut and you can pull the shock out. As I wasn't putting a standard shock back in, I gave the car side wiring socket a generous gob of dialectric grease to keep crap out in the future. Putting the new shock in is straightforward, feed it into at least 1 of the bolt holes at the top and reach around to put a nut on it to hold it up. Then put on the other 2 top nuts loosely and put the shock onto the lower mounting bolt (you may need to lift the hub a little if the new shock is shorter). Tighten the lower nut and 3 upper nuts and you are done. In my case the BC Racing shocks came assembled for the fronts, but the rears needed to re-use the factory strut tops. For that you need spring compressors to take the pressure off the top nut (they are compressed enough when the spring can move between the top and bottom spring seats. Then a 17mm ring spanner to undo the nut while using an 8mm open spanner to stop the shaft turning (or, if you are really lucky you might get it off with a rattle gun).
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      You will now be able to lift the parcel shelf trim enough to get to the shock cover bolts; if you need to full remove the parcel shelf trim for some reason you also remove the escutcheons around the rear seat release and you will have to unplug the high stop light wiring from the boot. Next up is removal of the bracket; 6 nuts and a bolt Good news, you've finally got to the strut top! Remove the dust cover and the 3 shock mount nuts (perhaps leave 1 on lightly for now....) Same on the other side, but easier now you've done it all before
×
×
  • Create New...