Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My missus drove home today telling me that the stag had an issue with turning on when she was coming home from the shops and there is an engine light.

So I went out and got the fault code, which made no sense, it had 10 slow flashes, then 340, then back to 10 slow flashes, weird....as normally it is 4 lots of quick flashes with a decent pause between the sets.

http://youtu.be/HuO487GeEbQ - Here is a video of the fault code and the starting issues. It just turns over and over until it starts, when it starts it runs fine. Feel no loss in power. However just then i took it for a bit of a burn into the city and it cut out once while slowing down for traffic lights. Started straight back up with no issue.

Any thoughts?

I am thinking either bad fuel causing a sensor to report errors or maybe AFM? Only reason why I mention fuel is because I recently put United Premium 98 (with 10% ethanol) as I was trying it out because BP Ultimate has hit 203.9 p/ltr up here. United up here have a rep of sometimes having "watered" down fuel.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/444410-nm35-problems-with-engine-starting/
Share on other sites

Sounds like the cam sensors, I've not had the problem but few other guys here have and should be able to help you out, normally when it takes ages to start its the cam sensors or maybe crank sensor.

Could also be AFM or even fuel pump dying. You'd need a proper scan to see what the fault says

I am soo hoping it is nothing major. In 1 week we have our wedding an the stag is required.

Might clean the AFM and connectors to the cam sensors. Might ask around and see if anyone up here has a consult to suit that I can borrow.

Well I cleaned the connector on passenger side (bank 1 yeah?)

And since then I have started about 6-8 times with no issue.

*fingers crossed*

Might see is Nissan in Perth (family flying up for wedding) have any and get them as spares. The Nissan dealer up here is fckn useless at the best of times.

So after starting and running like a dream all of yesterday. The damn thing started playing up again.

It seems to fault only after the engine is at operating temps.

Hopefully going to get it on a scanner today to confirm.

Got a price on both cam sensors and crank sensor (figured handy to have on hand) - $580 + $25 if i want the parts this week.

Dont pay that FFS.

Get them from the US, it'll be a heap cheaper. Check out the Z parts onlines sites, http://www.conceptzperformance.com/

There are others, so I don't know if thats the cheapest.

I am not planning to...unless I have no other option.

Just rang 2 dealers in Perth and one wanted $625 for all 3 (talk about butt hurt), the other $550.

Edited by cabbie_bro

Dont pay that FFS.

+1

I think these are the current part number you're after if you want to search around (correct me if I'm wrong guys).

Drivers side Cam : 23731-6J90B

Passenger side Cam: 23731-AL61A

Crank Sensor: 23731-AL60C

~$80 (US) each plus shipping etc from conceptz and similar prince from amayama. Not sure how easy they are to DIY.

Edited by TCO

I was only going to replace faulty sensor but keep spares (always handy).

I am going to get the intermittently faulty sensor from Nissan dealer, and order the rest from CZP so I have em on hand.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...