Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Theres a plug in the engine bay, just in front of the fuse/relay box. It joins the gearbox harness to the rest of the car. Mine was dirty and my reverse lights sometimes went funny then all of a sudden stopped

Simplistically, I would imagine the following:

Switch at the g/box

globe at the rear of car

fuse in the engine bay

and wiring to join it all together...

If you've multi'd the switch (when closed!), checked that the globes actually light up under a power source, then there is only the the wiring and the fuse to check.

That being said, did you check the switch for continuity? I found with my box/switch (R33 RB25), the only way I could verify that the switch was good was using a test light and a mini 12V battery.

Multimeter did not display/sound continuity unless powered!

Edited by R32Abuser

My reverse lights work for a second when I put it into reverse then go off. Not sure what it is they used to work when I pulled and held the gear leaver back but now they only work for the second when I first put it into reverse. Any one had this before? Thanks

Locate - Yes.

Troubleshoot - depends on how mechanically/electrically minded you are!

There is a plug at the reverse switch (on the gearbox) and in the engine bay where it joins back into the wiring loom.

Ground - I'd have to take a look and the wiring diagram to see exactly where the circuit is grounding. Something I neither have the time or the patience for at this time of the night.

Edited by R32Abuser

After checking everything again, still couldn't find the fault >.

What did you "check" and how?

He also checked everything and still doesn't work. ....

Something isn't being checked correctly.

Agreed.

As I said above, I had issues testing the circuit without having reverse selected and powered. Otherwise I got nothing...

Edited by R32Abuser

I've had the wiring diagram out

There is a plug at the tail-lights (obviously), a plug drivers side top front of boot (this may be out of sight inside the guard, I'm not real sure), the plug at the front which I mentioned before and then the plug at the switch on the gearbox

I cant find what fuse it is tee-ed off, but there are a fair few things powered off the same circuit like the de-fogger relay (rear window) so if thats working I dare say the power source is O.K.

Basically just need to test the switch, or bridge out the plug to eliminate the switch completely. Get the lights working without the switch and then you can see if the switch works. If you have power at the switch harness, then the earth is at the tail lights. If you have all the other lights + number plate lights then Earth is most likely not your problem, the Earth is common to all of them.

OP has already said he has tested the switch and it is O.K.

My switch could test fine to, i could also wiggle the gear stick while in reverse and get reverse lights going for a few seconds. Was very weird new switch fixed it. No idea if that's OP problem. Just a thought

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I got a full sheet set of OEM copied stickers to replace all the faded engine bay ones, great quality too.  Came from England. Someone like that should be able to to make u up what u want so long as u have a quality image to show them 🤷🏻‍♂️
    • Did this end up working? Did you take some pictures?
    • And finally, the front lower mount. It was doubly weird. Firstly, the lower mount is held in with a bracket that has 3 bolts (it also acts as the steering lock stop), and then a nut on the shock lower mount itself. So, remove the 3x 14mm head bolts , then the 17mm nut that holds the shock in. From there, you can't actually remove the shock from the lower mount bolt (took me a while to work that out....) Sadly I don't have a pic of the other side, but the swaybar mounts to the same bolt that holds the shock in. You need to push that swaybar mount/bolt back so the shock can be pulled out past the lower control arm.  In this pic you can see the bolt partly pushed back, but it had to go further than that to release the shock. Once the shock is out, putting the new one in is "reverse of disassembly". Put the top of the shock through at least one hole and put a nut on loosely to hold it in place. Put the lower end in place and push the swaybar mount / shock bolt back in place, then loosely attach the other 2 top nuts. Bolt the bracket back in place with the 14mm head bolts and finally put the nut onto the lower bolt. Done....you have new suspension on your v37!
    • And now to the front.  No pics of the 3 nuts holding the front struts on, they are easy to spot. Undo 2 and leave the closest one on loosely. Underneath we have to deal with the wiring again, but this time its worse because the plug is behind the guard liner. You'll have to decide how much of the guard liner to remove, I undid the lower liner's top, inside and lower clips, but didn't pull it full off the guard. Same issue undoing the plug as at the rear, you need to firmly push the release clip from below while equally firmly gripping the plug body and pulling it out of  the socket. I used my fancy electrical disconnect pliers to get in there There is also one clip for the wiring, unlike at the rear I could not get behind it so just had to lever it up and out.....not in great condition to re-use in future.
    • Onto the rear lower shock mount. It's worth starting with a decent degrease to remove 10+ years of road grime, and perhaps also spray a penetrating oil on the shock lower nut. Don't forget to include the shock wiring and plug in the clean.... Deal with the wiring first; you need to release 2 clips where the wiring goes into the bracket (use long nose pliers behind the bracket to compress the clip so you can reuse it), and the rubber mount slides out, then release the plug.  I found it very hard to unplug, from underneath you can compress the tab with a screwdriver or similar, and gently but firmly pull the plug out of the socket (regular pliers may help but don't put too much pressure on the plastic. The lower mount is straightforward, 17mm nut and you can pull the shock out. As I wasn't putting a standard shock back in, I gave the car side wiring socket a generous gob of dialectric grease to keep crap out in the future. Putting the new shock in is straightforward, feed it into at least 1 of the bolt holes at the top and reach around to put a nut on it to hold it up. Then put on the other 2 top nuts loosely and put the shock onto the lower mounting bolt (you may need to lift the hub a little if the new shock is shorter). Tighten the lower nut and 3 upper nuts and you are done. In my case the BC Racing shocks came assembled for the fronts, but the rears needed to re-use the factory strut tops. For that you need spring compressors to take the pressure off the top nut (they are compressed enough when the spring can move between the top and bottom spring seats. Then a 17mm ring spanner to undo the nut while using an 8mm open spanner to stop the shaft turning (or, if you are really lucky you might get it off with a rattle gun).
×
×
  • Create New...