Jump to content
SAU Community

Removing Front Seats From M35 Axis To Change Seat Button Modules

ECR33_RB25DET
 Share

Recommended Posts

ECR33_RB25DET Community Regular

ECR33_RB25DET

Posted
Posted

Hi fellow Stag owners,

Maybe this has been covered, I'm sure it has somewhere, I couldn't find the detailed thread hence posting this one.

Sorry if it's a repeat.

I need to remove the front Axis seats to replace the seat adjusting modules.

How do I remove the plastic trim located on the rear of each seat rail, they sit on the carpet and clip into the rear of the seat rails in a very weird ar$e way that makes them a ball breaker to remove. I can take a chisel and hammer to them but for the original cosmetic I'd like to remove and refit.

ECR33_RB25DET Community Regular

ECR33_RB25DET

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

They just slide backwards mate. :)

Definitely tried this Scott. The plastic trims that are fixed to the rear of the seat rails don't appear to simply slide off backwards...

Edited by ECR33_RB25DET
ECR33_RB25DET Community Regular

ECR33_RB25DET

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Do you have the buttons Pete?

I have a spare seat here. All electrics working.

All good Chris. I have new modules for drivers and passenger seat.

scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
Posted

Definitely tried this Scott. The plastic trims that are fixed to the rear of the seat rails don't appear to simply slide off backwards...

Is that your way of saying you would like me to do the job? :P

Pissermoff and put in some Recaros, the stock seats are like a park bench... With a heater.

ECR33_RB25DET Community Regular

ECR33_RB25DET

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I would love to pissermoff and put in some R35 GTR seats buts thats a big expense. Yes the stock are not the most comfy but they are leather...

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      S1 rb25/s14 starting problem

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      When you crank your car, and hit it with a timing light, can you see a steady crank timing?
    • PranK
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By PranK · Posted

      Oh, forgot to add, A few months ago I was getting mixture codes and the car was using crap loads of fuel. You could smell the unburned fuel in the exhaust, it was crazy strong. Economy was over 17.5 l/100 and usually around 19. I smoked the engine and found a leaky CCV hose which I replaced and then I replaced my two pre cat O2 sensors, I also replaced the MAF. This fixed my mixture codes and improved my exonomy but I'm still 14 - 15 l/100 when pottering about town so something is still amiss. Throttle response is much better and it has more pep but I'd like to know why it's still so thirsty (and I'm hoping that whatever it is gives me a bit more poke).    
    • 25zenki
      S1 rb25/s14 starting problem

      By 25zenki · Posted

      Car is on factory injectors/z32 maf/ q45 throttle body/ z32 ecu with nistune 
    • 25zenki
      S1 rb25/s14 starting problem

      By 25zenki · Posted

      Hello all, currently finishing up a rb25 swap into my s14. Having issues with starting, car has spark (confirmed by pulling a plug and watching it spark), has fuel(confirmed by checking pulse/voltage at injectors all spark plugs are soaked in fuel). Car cranks over and pops into the exhaust with a heavy fuel smell but no attempt to start or run, I have torn the timing cover off and triple confirmed timing, turned the CAS in multiple spots both directions, attempted to start with coolant temp and maf unplugged, checked my fuel lines and made sure they weren’t backwards, checked voltage at cas/injectors/coilpacks, made sure all the grounds in the harness are connected and added a few grounding straps (1 from chassis to block, 1 from chassis to head, and 1 from chassis to igniter chip) I am getting stumped here. As a last ditch effort I made a full grounding harness tonight that’s going to run from the battery and add an extra ground from the battery onto the coil pack harness/igniter chip/ intake manifold/ Wiring specialties harness ground/ and alternator. I’m hoping maybe the grounding harness will fix it here but posting here to see if anyone has any other ideas on what else I can check. My fuel pressure is unknown right gauge will be here tomorrow.  IMG_3206.mov
    • CRSKmD
      R32 Sedan - Grip and Drift (have my cake and eat it too build)

      By CRSKmD · Posted

      yeah I was shocked when I checked my spare OEM on and as below that's how they come from Nissan. (side interesting note new NEO gearbox and replacement park lack the brass bush on the tips and its just all alloy) unsure about damage to the box currently back at 1110 to be pulled down/inspected and selector fork replaced as he built it previously and given the never before seen failure on his billet forks he is replacing it under warranty. He said he has used always OEM the keyway tab without issue for years so it could be an unlucky coincidence. I did talk to him about the sharp corners and stress concentration too. Re: hard shifts i got 7+ years out of the OEM one and the fork itself failed not the keyway. so could be bad luck as I said or an age thing + heat cycles in box and during fabrication of billet?
×
×
  • Create New...