Jump to content
SAU Community

Melb Member,need Help, S1 R33 Gtst. Will Trade Beer/money/performance bits

the_tonkau

By the_tonkau,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

the_tonkau Community Regular

the_tonkau

Posted
Posted

I AM HAVING TUNING PROBS WITH MY SERIES 1 GTST. I WOULD LIKE TO SWAP OUT SOME PARTS TO ISOLATE THIS VERY ANOYING ISSUE MY MECHANIC CAN'T WORK OUT($900 LATER). I NEED A S1 AFM, A SET OF COIL PACKS AND AN IGNITER TO TEST WITH FOR 10 MINS. I INVISAGE DRIVING TO YOURS, SWAPPING THE BITS GOING AROUND THE BLOCK AND THEN GIVING YOU HEART FELTS THANKS AND PROBABLY SOME DOLLARS/SLABS OR IF INTERESTED A WEEK OLD UAS COLD AIR INTAKE AND O2 RUSH RACE POD. BIT OF A LONG SHOT BUT I'M SURE SOME POOR BASTARD HAS BEEN IN THIS POSITION BEFORE.

THANKS GUYS

STEVE. 0411 403081 [email protected]:)

meggala Grand Master

meggala

Posted
Posted

yeah if you post your problem we could give you an idea.

but first thing to check is your plug gap if your runnig over 8 psi this should be sewt to .8 mm not the default 1.1 mm.

if the idle is bad and inconsistent ie going from 1000 rpm to 2000 rpm then your afm could be the culprit.

also the coil packs and the the ignition apmlifier if the car is running rough. the crank angel sensor could be the problem if yua re loosing power over a certain boost. factory timing should be @ 15o .

nex t I would be looking for a mechanic how knows skylines cause this guy obviously doesn't .

last one is to check the cooler piping is ok.

meggala

the_tonkau Community Regular

the_tonkau

Posted
  • Author
Posted

All pipes/intercooler pressure checked , correct heat range (7)and gapped plugs, reset ecu, Manifolds checked and tightneed, turbo removed and checked. Dynoed and mixtures seem solid at 11%(S-AFC installed and waiting for tweaking). When its warm(weather wise) it will pull through the rev range smoooth and hard in all gears, when its cold(weather wise), starts missing as it pulls higher boost even in second(high boost means 10psi in my case, no where near factory cut off). AND, fuel pressure tested under load OK and boost gauge tested as well?????? I tell ya it annoying but at least I know whats NOT wrong with the buggar!!!:D

  • 1 year later...
Nightman Explorer

Nightman

Posted
Posted

I Have the SAME Problem as this... Cold = Miss, Hot = Fine!

I Tried a BOOST Controller and its WAY Worse (even at stock boost levels) !!! I thought it might be the Ignition module not being able to handle the extra boost from cooler air???

I currently have .75mm gap which makes it drivable... but, on a 20deg day it misses under 60% > 100% Throttle (around 4500 RPM+)... on a 25+ day it does not miss a beat...

the_tonkau: if you manage to fix this PlEaSe! let me know what it was as I am in a simular position... no parts to swap... no mechanic who knows.... etc etc...

the_tonkau Community Regular

the_tonkau

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Could be a lot of things and maybe a combination of two issues but my fix was(after lots of piss farting around, a faulty ignition module that was breaking down at higher boost! Dr Drift at BMT Motorsport (www.bmtmotorsports.com.au) found the problem!

Good luck

Steve

the_tonkau Community Regular

the_tonkau

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Needless to say it is been shaming SS Commodores and the such, left right and centre since the super mega drifto tune! Hey Dr, when you putting the NoS bottle on the BMW?...haha hehe hoo hoo....Shit I'm funny.

Easy.

the_tonkau Community Regular

the_tonkau

Posted
  • Author
Posted

No, unless you made one up out of a Sultana Bran packet, but I don't think that would be a great conducter of ..........."currents"........hahahaha !! hehe

Once again...DR DRIFT @ www.bmtmotorsports.com.au" DO IT!

Dr_Drift Veteran

Dr_Drift

Posted
Posted

Nightman,

The funny 'the_tonkau' used our last igniter module, but I still have a spare AFM, CAS, coil packs, etc if you want to try and find the problem...

The most common mis-fire problem I've seen is plugs, follwed by coil packs, follwed by CAS, followed by igniter module...

Doc.

  • 3 weeks later...
ABuSD Veteran

ABuSD

Posted
Posted

How much are all those parts to replace, Doc? I may have to visit u next time with Lucky in his Slug of a Soarer :(

I have the same problem, and only running 11psi, and getting my ass kicked @ the lights :) Definatly losing power :mad:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • iain_ST44GA
      M35 VQ25DET starter motor

      By iain_ST44GA · Posted

      Hi Guys, Does anyone know any aftermarket part numbers for a starter motor to suit the VQ25DET? I can find lots of alternative part number for the VQ35DE, which I assume would fit, but there is a lot of conflicting information out there. Thanks..
    • Murray_Calavera
      R33 GTR running -9 with no tune

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      I don't understand how this hasn't boiled down to - Upgrade the turbo when you have everything required. ECU, injectors, fuel pump, turbo, etc. Do it all at once.  If you don't have everything required, just enjoy the car as it is and keep saving up your pennies. 
    • Duncan
      R33 GTR running -9 with no tune

      By Duncan · Posted

      Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Duncan
      New kid on the block

      By Duncan · Posted

      Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Duncan
      Coolant leak?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
×
×
  • Create New...