Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys so i need some expert advise on the whole rb25det s1 and s2 loom and engine differences.

current set up is a rb25de(+)t engine in a r32 4 door running the stock rb20det loom/ and i assume rb20det computer?

this rb25de+t is a vct but vct isn't plugged in cause its a rb20det loom.

Question 1.so i am currently getting a rb25det series 2 engine built and my question is do i need a complete rb25det series 2 loom to run this engine.

or can i get it to run on my current loom?

Question 2. would it work if i used s1 coilpacks on the s2 engine?

Question 3. what are the differences between a series 1 and 2?

Question 4. which is better?

cheers guys.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/446739-rb25det-s1-and-s2-loom-questions/
Share on other sites

So let me just get this straight. You've got an R33 RB25de engine (with VCT disabled) in an R32 with an rb20det loom and which Ecu? Best checking to be sure mate.

You shouldn't have any issues really other than having to wire up a window switch for VCT. This is majorly important by the way, the car will be 100x nicer to drive with VCT functioning.

About Coilpacks I'm not 100% sure someone else can weigh in.

Good luck

Edit: the difference in s1 and s2 rb25dets is I believe the long nose crank which engages the oil pump fully. Not a deal breaker but if you've got the s1 motor without a crank collar then keep off the limiter

Edited by Blackkers
  • 5 months later...

Sorry to bring up an old thread but id rather not start a new one. I was given a RB25 loom by a mate to help with a budget 25/30 build and it didn't come with the "external" looms (injector, gearbox and coil pack. not sure if there's another im missing). Are there any ways to tell wether its a S1or2 from just the basic loom? I assume from what has been said above it doesnt actually matter tho. like if i get S1 coils i just have to get the IB and itll plug into the same plug that the S2 coilpack loom would plug into (obviously directly due to not having the external IB). i may not have worded that very well haha so let me know if i need to clear anything up.

cheers

like if i get S1 coils i just have to get the IB and itll plug into the same plug that the S2 coilpack loom would plug into (obviously directly due to not having the external IB).

I wouldn't count on that. I don't think the plugs are the same. The ignition looms ARE different, not just interchangeable parts.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
    • Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
    • Pull codes via the self-diagnosis procedure. As far as I can tell this is just a sign of transmission issues but not a code unto itself.
×
×
  • Create New...