Jump to content
SAU Community

Sticky Handbrake?

SNEEZYC34

By SNEEZYC34,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

 Share

Recommended Posts

SNEEZYC34 Community Regular

SNEEZYC34

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hey guys

My c34 is auto so I have the foot hand brake. It's easy to put on. Put when I take hand brake off it's really stiff and I have to put my door behind the pedal to really pull it off.

Anyone had this issue before?

Edited by SNEEZYC34
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/447275-sticky-handbrake/
Share on other sites
sekay1994 Contributor

sekay1994

Posted
Posted

Mine has the same problem, occurred randomly one cold morning after no specific change. Some times it releases nicely and sometimes I even have to pull the foot brake manually. Haven't had it looked at since it still functions but feels like the cable is 'sticky' or something

Sinista32 Grand Master

Sinista32

Posted
Posted (edited)

Freyed cable? need replacing.

running WD40 down the cable doesn't help ?

(I like the older Torana's with a foot brake but then released by a pull knob/switch on the dash)

Edited by Sinista32
zoomzoom Mentor

zoomzoom

Posted
Posted

I had the same problem and fixed it by spraying the whole pedal mechanism with WD40.

You will need to put down newspaper and plastic sheets or garbage bags in the footwell to catch the run off - you will need to spray a lot.

Spray the whole mechanism while moving the pedal in and out (try to hold open the release catch somehow)

I also used a tube and a nozzle attached to the WD40 can because you need to hold the can upright, while the tube and nozzle allows you to get the WD40 right onto the mechanism.

It has now been more than a year since I did this, and at the moment there is only the faintest sticking at the top of the pedal travel. Might be time to give it another shot.

Ben C34 Grand Master

Ben C34

Posted
Posted

Things getting stiff and sticky is pretty normal for any old car.

Might pay to use something other than wd 40 fpr longer lasting results.

Wd40 washes away whatever grease is left then dries up pretty quick, silicon spray or dry glide would be a longer lasting alternative.

SNEEZYC34 Community Regular

SNEEZYC34

Posted
  • Author
Posted

yeah im gonna have a sus this weekend and see what i can find.

Only reason i found it strange is i have had another foot handbrake on my old 1980 triton ute and never had issues and google didnt come up with much so wasnt sure if it was common or not aye.

Kris

zoomzoom Mentor

zoomzoom

Posted
Posted

Things getting stiff and sticky is pretty normal for any old car.

Might pay to use something other than wd 40 fpr longer lasting results.

Wd40 washes away whatever grease is left then dries up pretty quick, silicon spray or dry glide would be a longer lasting alternative.

It would probably be a worth a shot adding some silicone spray after cleaning, I just find that WD40 has a superior ability to dissolve and flush out crap. Leave the car for a week or two after cleaning until the WD smell goes away, then add the lube.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Manur33
      Rb25det coil loom wire identification

      By Manur33 · Posted

      Hi, i’m making a rb25det coil loom for Vag short coil. Can anybody tell me which Ecu signal wire belong to coil number 1 and 2,3,4,5,6? The connecting switch in above pic is 8 wire i think white is for +12v and black for earth.
    • davemoto63
      Stagea choice's which model??

      By davemoto63 · Posted

      Was there ever a model of the Stagea m35 that didnt have a badge on the grill? I thought I saw that somewhere, some aero edition or something? I cant find it again? davemoto
    • davemoto63
      Noobie Stagea owner..

      By davemoto63 · Posted

      Its a 2002 vr-x four VQ25DET, silver. Coil overs, lowered, polished alloys and sport exhaust. Bit of a project, was sitting in a shed for a while but runs and drives great.
    • CF.Panda
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By CF.Panda · Posted

      I wasn’t able to replicate the sound anymore. It was a one time sound so maybe it was just coincidence but it was like small pebbles being dropped in a coke can.   should I try cleaning the MAF? It could be it’s functioning but dirty? I don’t know.
    • sunsetR33
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Update 4: Hi all. The car drives again! Haven't driven for long, only to store it in the garage again, but the test drive was successful. The coolant and oil leaks seem to be fixed for now. Temps on the engine were also very good, while moving I never even saw 80C water during the approx. 30 minute drive. Ate up all the coolant in the reservoir though so will have to fill that even more when I go to the car next time. One thing that pisses me off is that the RPM gauge is still f**ked, I even resoldered the board twice and used copper paste on the silly screws that are used as connections. Next time I take it out I'll take apart the board and fit new components, I'll see if I can get a replacement IC for it.  I have an appointment set for 22nd of September for the engine tune to 370hp. Alignment also still needs to be done. My hope is that I can get all the legal stuff over with by the end of this season. Anyone of you have advice regarding intercoolers? Currently there is an APEXI core fitted, one of those weird hybrid ones, 600x270x76. I don't think it's bad but it's not new and now I still have the chance to change it now to legally include it in the paperwork. Only issue is that the only options that would arrive in time are a HKS Type R intercooler or generic Ebay spec intercoolers comparable to a JustJap one. Ideally I'd order a Plazmaman but it takes over a month to receive which would mean making the car legal has to wait until next season. Would love to hear some input on this. Same story for my injectors, the previous owner was a nunce and put ID 1050x on the engine. They work but are obviously not ideal at "normal" power levels. But I don't see a reason to change them unless the tuner says it's necessary. I read online before buying a different exhaust that the top secret style rear diffusers won't fit due to the size of the rear resonators. My buddy and I made it work by slightly "adjusting the shape" of the mounting bracket and making some spacers out of 3d print for the mounting bolts. Fits like a charm. Just putting this here in case someone has this problem. Even the hefty HKS Silent Hi Power rear can fits without hitting anything.
×
×
  • Create New...