Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Talk to Greg @ Race Brakes in Wetherill Park Sydney. (They do brake kits, probably able to post if need be).

I got my 324 x 32 mm rotors from there and im wrapped in them. They are slotted, but not cross drilled. I dont recommend getting cross drilled rotors, especialy on road cars. Rotors can still use factory Nissan Caliper, with a bracket to accomodate larger diameter.

I looked at the Apexi untis as well, they are 2-piece where mine are single, but the Apexi rotors are no bigger than factory.

You should at least talk to Greg or Avian, they may be able to give you a better option, or feedback on what you are looking to buy. Great service/quality and dont sell you things you dont need. (Brake kits to your application)

Only thing is try and get rotors that are slotted all the way to the outer edge, this stops pad build up and a groove wearing into the rotor where the slot stops on the face of the disc. (really no big deal)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/4473-apexi-brake-rotors/#findComment-70535
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Working through possible solutions of converting my mechanical speedo.    Anyone know what type of speedo sensor the factory r34 gtr getrag has ? what the output is ? I assume its not a VSS and more a voltage like earlier speedo sensors ? Can an ECU read it ?  
    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
×
×
  • Create New...