Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello Everyone.
Please help me identify problens with my gerabox.
I have a BNR32, with nice built RB26 and S362FMW runing 1.2-1.4 bar of boost.
I have broken 2 sotck trannys so i ordered OS-giken 5 speed kit with input shaft and center plate.
Installed it and my problem seem to go away... until i get to drag strip.
While making my starts better and better tuning launc and torque split finaly i set up launch to 7200 and forgot to remove 50% fo torque from front i didn ont start at all, the car didnt even moves.
later in garage we found that it is counter shaft broken right after 5 gear.
Here is a picture

KdoqeRZ8bSI.jpg

If you look closely you can see wear on the shaft in the place it inserts into a wall between gearbox and transfer case.
What can be the cause of this? I mean the cause of breaking shaft i guess wear shows that shaft was not proppely secued and had a play.
All kind of bearings including bush in the crankshaft?

Edited by Peacekz

You haven't listed your power, which really tells more of the story then how much boost you are running. Depending on power/torque, with a 7200rpm launch with power going to all 4 wheels, it might just be something that should not have been done.

Better photo of the fracture?

Hello Sorry no better foto.

I dont know exact power. it should be around 600 HP i think taking in consideration i load 89% of 720CC injectors and making 11.4 ET with bad start.

Soru english is not a native, what do you mean by fracture? the place where i see a wear on the shfaft where it contects needle type bearing or the photo of the the shaft where it was broken?

Yes i understand that was my mistake to launch on 50/50, but i'm quite expiriencde in gt-r's and never seen countershaft failure like this. There is always a weaker point than these solid 29mm stell shaft.

The middle shows the last part that hung on then twisted and snapped. Will have to find my failure analysis book, haven't had much to do with metal failures lately. That is a very clean break. I had a similar looking failure with a rear drive shaft. Almost identical actually.

That was from a high rpm launch

Edited by 89CAL

One more thought -the break surface is polished by rotating during the car was worked. And we pulled the car to the garage with the engine started so the brakes was good. So i guess the surface will not tell the truth. I guess the shaft was broken due to it has a vertical play.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
    • For race cars, this is one part where I find having the roll cage bar having gone through a hole in the floor better than the build it up on a ledge inside... The Merc I help on, the main hoop ends are marked on the car, and the jack is marked... Jack goes under a few inches and lifts one whole side of the car up... Removes that fight for long slim jacks for race car duties!   My biggest issue for the daily drivers I work on, is my jacks don't go high enough. The jacks start out on a few blocks, jack it up, then start a second jack under it on more blocks, and then I can get an axle stand under it. My axle stands are presently in use, and are nearly fully extended. The car is sitting with barely more than a cm of clearance to get the wheel off the studs! Sarah's Kluger is the same, as it has an ungodly amount of droop available in the suspension and a distinct lack of good jacking points!
    • Happy? Yep, my to do list is getting shorter and shorter. Either this light approaching is the end of the tunnel, or I'm about to be hit by a train... Ha ha ha   Also, Duncan isn't that far out of town that you need to make a multi day drive out of it. 😛
    • Sorry I meant that we are building the EH for a client.
    • LOL, when one "money pit" is never enough Noice, and excellent work mate
×
×
  • Create New...