Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

That's the idle air circuit, AAC and air reg connect here.

Cheers for that man, it had a hole melted in to it, i have taped it for the meanwhile. would a hole in it cause my car to run like crap?

Absolutely, you'll let unmetered air into the engine below boost, and let out tons of air on boost. Definitely would run like crap.

Ohh okay, because thats what it feels like its doing, its hitting 8 psi, but doesn't feel like its pulling at all. almost feels like its letting all the boost out somewhere. I have taped the hole really well until i get a replacement, but its still doing it.

Edited by rb25debt

What has been done to the black pipe that connects to that nipple?

That pipe connects (via the AAC and air reg) to the plenum so I doubt the engine would run unless the pipe has been blocked.

I followed it and its still hooked up to the plenum, it goes to a joiner that goes along the top of the back of the engine. The hole was melted by the external wastegate

So you're saying the hose end is open to atmosphere?

Under idle conditions, the throttle plate is effectively closed and the engine draws air via that black hose.

The AAC valve and the air reg are part of that system, which ends by connection to the plenum.

This means with an open hose, when idling the engine is eating unfiltered air and when under boost conditions, boost is escaping.

It's not too difficult to connect that hose to the "J" pipe as originally intended.

So you're saying the hose end is open to atmosphere?

Under idle conditions, the throttle plate is effectively closed and the engine draws air via that black hose.

The AAC valve and the air reg are part of that system, which ends by connection to the plenum.

This means with an open hose, when idling the engine is eating unfiltered air and when under boost conditions, boost is escaping.

It's not too difficult to connect that hose to the "J" pipe as originally intended.

Yea it's still connected to the correct place it just had a hole melted into it. i taped it for the mean while

I see, that's not so hard then.

As a temporary measure I'd cut the hose at the burned part and sleeve it with a piece of steel tube/hose clamps until you can buy a suitable replacement.

The hose has to take heat and boost so tape won't cut it.

Ahh good idea, yea i'll do that tomorrow, i also realized my bov isn't going off, it just compresser surges. as i said earlier it makes 8 psi boost but doesn't pull like it is. When i had the gate hooked up wrong and it was over boosting the bov was going off.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • New CAS just turned up from NZ Wiring. Looks like a nice bit of gear.  So, yeah. Triggered, bro. Realised I may as well do the cam belt while mucking about with it so will order one of them.
    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
×
×
  • Create New...