Jump to content
SAU Community

Suspension Replacement Experience From Very Well Known Workshop

mickr33
 Share

Recommended Posts

mickr33 Community Regular

mickr33

Posted
Posted

Well here we go...

Very well known suspension specialist lets just say in Thomastown was where I had complete suspension replaced. Business has been there for around 20-25 years so I'm thinking yeah should be top knotch as many others have raved about this place in the past. Went there so they could inspect the vehicle on the hoist and quote. All good, needs this that and the other, no problem. So booked the car in for two weeks time. Arrive at 8 am sharp as requested. Will only be 1 day. So no phone call by 4 so I call. Um coilovers haven't arrived yet so it should be tomorrow. Ok I can live with that, these things happen. So turned up after work next day to pick the car up. Yeah all good he says and we lowered it the 15mm extra you wanted. Great I'm thinking UNTIL the words oh yeah I had to roll the front guards so it wouldn't rub. I said you what? Rolled the front guards. At this point I'm thinking OMG. So at this stage I've gone to inspect the car and gone straight for the guards. Oh low and behold the paint has cracked. I turn to him and ask the very simple question. Before you felt the need to take it apon yourself to roll the guards why, WHY on earth did you not call me first. Blank faced he says I thought I was doing the right thing. Not even a sorry came from his mouth. So he says what do you want me to do. Um I'd like it fixed thanks. He says I don't know any panel beaters. I said we'll in the 20 odd years you've been here you don't know any panel shops? So having said that I left the car and walked approx 5 k in hail to the train station without even an offer of a lift or anything by the workshop. 7 days later picked the car up and I was on my way. Even after there boasting of how good they are at alignments and hardly anyone can do a good alignment how come the cars steering wheel is way of in a straight position and pulls to the left? Even one of the items on the receipt that said was fixed has not been touched. I honestly wanted a good experience from this place and I'm appalled. Did I pay top dollar for my experience. You bet I did. Wouldn't have fazed me if I had received the service to go with the price. So now I have to find another place to get a correct wheel alignment done. I was a little paranoid leaving my car with anyone, but now I'm just super paranoid. Thanks for reading......

niZmO_Man Grand Master

niZmO_Man

Posted
Posted

Moral of the story? Every shop is dodgy unless proven otherwise. I've spent $300+ on "wheel alignments" to know better. Imagine all that money spent instead on tools and teaching yourself how to work on your car (something as basic as swapping struts and rolling your guards).

Bad luck mate

skylinecouple Experienced

skylinecouple

Posted
Posted

Ab-so-bloody-lutely !! DON'T trust anybody. ALL mechanics or anybody in the auto industry cannot be trusted. Stand there, watch them, all day if necessary. Remember, most of these guys were talking in class when they were at school or drawing cars in their school books. If they were smart they'd be vets or doctors.

Ok, so maybe I'm over exaggerating, but you get the drift. Save your money, buy tools. Is there anything more satisfying than doing some work on your car and it turns out way better than any mechanic could have done yet didn't cost you $900 or $3,000 or heaven forbid $10,000 ?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Haggerty
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Haggerty · Posted

      As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • AnimalGarage
      spot the stagea

      By AnimalGarage · Posted

      It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • GTSBoy
      R34 Handbrake light saying ON and intermittently flashing

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • Duncan
      R34 Handbrake light saying ON and intermittently flashing

      By Duncan · Posted

      ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
×
×
  • Create New...