Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all!!

Ok so story goes. - Car is fuel as, and wont rev correctly just spits and farts etc..

1997 200SX S14 - Car

RB20DET Engine & Box

- Forward Facing Plenum

- T3 Turbo

RB25DET (Series 1) Conversion Loom

Have Changed, AFM, Plugs, Injectors, Coilpacks, O2 Sensor

Any ideas ??

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/450399-revving-boost-issue/
Share on other sites

Don't know that turbo but an aftermarket turbo with stock ecu is :/
How long have you had it for? @ what boost and for how long? Compression test?
I know stock rb20 ECUs don't handle high boost well and could lead to destroying an engine. I learnt what pinging sounds like with a boost t in an r32 gtst 10 years ago


Issues from cars with conversion done are really hard to diagnose online because so many things are customised
Ie it could be an injector plug that was not soldered/ joined properly or a bit loose since you used rb25 loom which has side feed plugs and rb20 uses top feeds hence different plugs. Or many other things
Definitely more info needed

I thought sr20 from s14 would be a better engine in the s14 than an rb20 but anyway

edit: read again realised you said havent ran correctly since conversion. check wiring and timing i'd say

Edited by chiksluvit

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Should be more than fine, especially the overall fuel pressure would never exceed 3.5bar (assuming that thing never gets more than 0.5bar of boost in stock form). According to the chart, it's 11amps.
    • I definitely know the first rule here, look first, ask second. I've seen many people get roasted 😂 I found a few diagrams for the RB, but I'm yet to come across one for the VQ. From what I have read, the pump gets the +12v along with the FPCM, and it's the negative wire that gets passed through the resistor to regulate the voltage. So I assume I can just ground the negative wire at the pump to eliminate the FPCM control. But I really wanted to see the VQ circuit diagram first to make sure I understood it correctly. Once the new pump is in I'll do some testing to see how it behaves, and in the meantime, I'll keep looking for a wiring diagram. Thanks for your help mate, your time is greatly appreciated.    
    • Maybe? I have the Supercheap ToolPro low thingo. It has a somewhat smaller diameter lifting "bowl" than you would expect on a workshop grade trolley jack, and a split rubber pad to suit that diameter. It clears the "N1" style skirts I have. Probably wouldn't if the jack's bowl and a suitably larger rubber block were in use. Having said that though.....you only need the rubber block to exist on the inner side of the pinchweld, so could carve away any rubber that fouled the skirt, leaving some there for "insurance" </simples>
    • I used to do that (sills with rubber jack block).. ... then I got side skirts, and there's no way for the jack to actually work there, the jack pad itself on the jack is too big. Is the answer to use a... smaller (?) jack? Hmmm.
    • I have too much trauma from every skyline I've ever seen having crushed jack points/pinch welds lol.    Yep, works 100%, it's what I use when I'm using the quick jack. Don't know why I can't also bring myself to do the same thing when I'm using a jack. I blame the skyline PTSD. 
×
×
  • Create New...