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Hey SAU really need ur help. Bled my 34GTT clutch today with a vac pump off slave, drained master completely by mistake (happened 2-3 times) and wasted a lot of brake fluid cycling thru system. Am putting the same clean brake fluid that Im sucking out incl air bubbles from pump back into system thinking the air escapes as I open the container and then pour it in. Wrong?

Lots bubbles keep comin out when sucking from slave. Then I gave up n stopped n did the open nipple on slave, push pedal, close nipple, pull pedal, repeat many many times maybe 10-12 times n still pedal on floor- hasnt got full pressure, say only 15-20% of what it used to be. Havent bled the master/or 'funny little box' between master n slave which I dont even know where it is.. No leaks to master or slave confirmed. Please help! Car is on jackstands n I mite have to get mr lubemobile tomorrow. Also lid on master is OPEN as Im doing all this n checking fluid level, is this ok? Can there be air INSIDE the bled fluid that Im putting back in or does it all escape when opening bottle to pour?

How do I get my pedal back, have read the tute too :(

Basically need to get pressure in my system.

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Nothing wrong with leaving master cap open while bleeding.

Recycling brake fluid is never wise. Once it has been exposed to whatever nasties are in a circuit, it is best to consider it spoiled. Certainly, if I was to re-use it the way that you're doing, to try to get the pedal back at all, I would be wanting to push the recycled stuff out afterwards and replace with fresh once it's all good. Very fine bubbles might exist in your recycled fluid and you might be best off letting it sit for some time before re-using. By the same token, the qty of air that can be invisibly in the fluid is not a lot, so shouldn't offer a lot of pedal squish either.

I'm guessing that you have trashed the piston seal on your master.

Thanks mate, hoping I didnt, was workin fine before doing a bleed- I have also done vac sucking off the slave a few times with master cyl lid closed to see if it made a difference which it didnt. And done the slave open, push clutch, close , pull clutch, repeat with lid closed and open too. Can I destroy seals this way? Will try a few more pumps tomorro n try to bleed master aswl. Clutch bleed Tute says to bleed LINES from master, slave and fluid dampner box, does this mean remove each of the hose connections, push clutch, fit hose, pull clutch? Hard one

Phew just did that -its hard with one man job because even when you hold pedal down with rod against seat, after you crack bleeders n close it, the pedal loosens further and the rod falls off. Everytime. Now I do have some decent pressure in system but its only from 'second half' of pressing pedal that I feel it. The first half of the pedal is limp :(... Adjust bolt on pedal?? Damn I didnt know what a nitemare this job could be. Goin to research online on adjusting..

Finally I THINK I know whats wrong- holding the clutch pressed with a steel rod aint do too much because I realized my foot can push it further down-(its a performance npc carbotic so pressure plate is harder) hence Im only partially pressurising the system -clutch not fully pressed when bleeding correct? Need to wait for my flatmate to get in n give me a hand (or feet). Am I right here?

Oh ok lol..such a learning process. Ive fixed it on my own, it does bite a bit earlier than before maybe 1/4-1/3 up from the floor. The top 1/3 is free play so not quite right, have bled the master, funny box n slave to death.

Then put in new Remsa pads on my front stock calipers, 4 pistons are a bit of a job! My front right caliper developed a tiny leak from the edges where the 2 halves of the caliper screw onto each other after I mistakenly removed the 4 bolts, removed 2 and partially the 3rd n 4th bolt when the leak surfaced -I put it on as tight as but still the leaks there. Sure its not from the piston but the gaskets or watever seals the caliper housings together. What to do- rebuild kit or give to a brakes specialist?

You could just take it off, apart and then take the pieces to a brake shop to get the appropriate o-rings, which they should have in stock. Of course, once it's apart, it should probably be cleaned up nice, new pistons seals and a general scrub up done. So......dunno what to tell you there.

I had this problem. Keep a hose off the drain nipple into a jar of fluid. Sometimes when you pump and then release the pedal, air can get back in. Also what I'd suggest is bypass the whole bullshit between the master and slave using a braided line.

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