Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all

My M35 has developed a miss again, and as it only does it when it's warm, I'm thinking that it may by a coil pack again.

Can anyone here in Sydney (north preferably) plug it in and possibly tell me which one? (if that is the problem...)

Is it the Consult II for M35s? My local guy suggested finding a stagea specialist to save time (and money).

Thanks in advance

Kind regards

Andrew

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/450528-m35-ecu-read/
Share on other sites

Consult 3 can help though, it can disable coils and injectors to pinpoint the issue. Nothing you can't do from under the bonnet though.

Have you changed the plugs? LFR7aix

Make sure the coils are plugged in properly, sometimes they missfire if the plug isn't pushed right in.

Make sure the plugs are on the correct coils, this is easy to mix up on the VQ.

The VQ25det coils are very reliable, and the one faulty coil I saw (in 6 years) threw an ignition error code. More likely there is something else wrong. Check the condition of the plugs first, they usually tell the story.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/450528-m35-ecu-read/#findComment-7422790
Share on other sites

Hi all. Thanks for the responses. I've had trouble with the coil packs in the past, and this feels like that. The plugs are only 12 months old and there is no check engine light on.

I was guessing coil pack because it felt like last time... It also happens when it warms up which led me to think that it's electrical. It's been running fine since I replaced the couple of coil packs but as they were aftermarket non-genuine it may be one of them (or both).

Will make sure they're pushed in and check the condition of the plugs (spark and the connectors) and see if this helps.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/450528-m35-ecu-read/#findComment-7423071
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, plenty of air flow, there is a dedicated path that feeds the air in to the OEM intake tube behind the bumper As for a "tangible effect", maybe, but getting the pod/intake air out of the hot engine bay is worth it psychologically to me, even if it gives no performance difference, so the tangible effect in my Lizard brain saysss yessss  In the end, to me a tangible effect isn't always about performance, sometimes it a sound or a look, or even a...... feeling  Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga
    • yeah first and reverse is where you will find clutch release issues (whether hydraulic or mechanical) because the difference in revs required is the highest there; particularly changing down from 2nd to 1st when still moving. To be clearer though, it is possible that the clutch release bearing is the wrong height. This is less likely than a hydraulic issue but it is not unheard of when you are mixing and matching
    • Quite right, if you make it to that pension you deserve every cent
    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
×
×
  • Create New...